|
|
12th May 2011. Day 81. 53 miles.
It was positively cold cycling down out of Pine Valley at 07:00. The road dropped to 3600 before a hard short climb
to 4000 at which point the long downhill started. Back onto I-8 for a few miles before switching to Alpine which ran
parallel. There were huge roadworks in Alpine. On perhaps 12 or 15 occasions the road was down to one lane.
I would approach the flagman, who always had the stop sign up for some reason, at high downhill speed, and brake, and brake,
and just as I would stop, and dismount, he would turn it to slow and I would have to get up to speed again. Toward the
end I was jack of the whole procedure and had lost my sense of humor. At one, I was told to wait till all the cars had
gone, even though there was heaps of room for them to pass me. I, in good Australian fashion replied, "she'll be
right mate" and pedaled off. Stuff 'em. I slowly worked into the suburbs of San Diego. Traffic increased
and navigation, just like Phoenix, required more stops to check the map. The wind came in off the sea, cool and moist.
I could not see the sea from the top of the descent - only the long low cloud of smog. There were more hills to climb
and descend, but I knew they were coming from my motor cycle visit. More traffic, more hills. I had decreed that,
being the last day, walking up hills was not allowed, so I worked much harder than I otherwise would, but there was no point
in husbanding my resources - it was time to spend. I started up the long hill on Mission Canyon only to find, about
a quarter of the way up that the GPS was insisting on a U-turn. Sure enough I should have turned onto Father Junipere
Serra Trail. I decided to go back, giving up the altitude gained. A good decision: instead of a giant hill there
was a delightful flat bike path through a narrow wooded gorge that rejoined five miles on. After every hill I expected
the final flat run to the beach. Ultimately it came in the form of five miles of bike path paralleling a drainage canal
to the sea. And then I was at the end of the path with just Pacific Ocean ahead of me. Seeing it in the sun light
for the first time (on this trip) was satisfying and I said hello. I reached the end of the journey at 12:40.
Diane arrived and after unloading the bike I walked her (the bike) to the ocean and dipped the front wheel in the water.
Since the original front tyre was now on the rear, I dipped the rear wheel in as well. 3056 miles in 81 days including
weather, rest, and bum repair days. So that's the end of that bit. What now?
11th May 2011. Day 80. 35 miles.
After yesterday I really had no idea what to expect of the climbs and winds today, so set out at 06:35 in cold conditions
from the 3000 level at which I had finished. There was a moderate and cold head wind as I finished the climb to 3300
and then a good downhill run into the valley where Jacumba is the centre of another irrigated agricultural plain. Then
there was a moderate climb across another ridge into Boulevard, and then another climb to 3800 and Live Oak Springs.
After so much bloody desert it was a definite oasis, with many live oaks and even a small creek tumbling down the valley.
The sound of gurgling water was most welcome. Yet more climbing to 4100, but the wind had died away some time before
and I could pedal most of it, electing to walk by choice from time to time. I stopped for a very brief word with Kevin,
who was heading to Mexico by bike and appeared to be making heavy weather of it. It was now warming up, and I descended
back to 3200 before the longish climb over the last ridge for the day at 4200. This bit started to drag. At the
immigration check point I asked if they wanted to see my green card since I was an Australian national. The man looked
at me, and said "I can't tell if you are telling me something or asking me a question" and waved me through.
The top came suddenly as I crossed I-8 and descended into Pine Valley at 3800 feet pulling up at the store at 11:45.
I made much better time on the grades than I expected, a combination of being fitter and the lack of any wind. I had
a drink, and then ate half a liter of ice cream. The legs were better than I had any right to expect after yesterday's
climbing but I was happy to stop and leave 51 miles to the beach in San Diego for tomorrow. The only problem will be
that I lose my licence to eat when I arrive.
10th May 2011. Day 79. 39 miles.
The wind warning was extended from 13:00 to 22:00 yesterday and when the alarm went at 05:00 it was still blowing 25 knots
or so. I went back to bed and by 06:30 it seemed to have moderated and I turned out onto the horribly bumpy S29 heading
S at 07:15. It was a beam wind that settled at about 15 knots. I turned W onto 98 and took it on the nose.
At least there was a wide smooth shoulder, but it was a slog for 20 miles usually in low/low gear and making slow progress.
I met Leo, who was going the same way as me, but walking! He is trying to walk across America in 100 days, and this
being day 90 for him, should bolt it in. The uphill started gradually, and by the time I reached I-8 I had come up from
minus 68 feet to close to 800. The wind was up to 20 knots as I started on the coastal range, alternating walking with
riding. Both modes were slow, and as I reached 3000 feet I'd just about had it for the day. The grade was such
that you could ride it if the wind came up from behind, as it did occasionally as it swirled around the amazing canyons and
rocky hills and outcrops. But no sooner were you mounted than it gave a quick blast from ahead and stopped you in your
tracks. At the junction with Old S80, I was again going downhill (a little) and pedaling hard in low gear. With
the head wind and 3100 foot climb it was a very hard day despite the low mileage. But the temperature was great, and
so, overall, was the road surface. My thigh muscles are the sorest they have been, so I must have been working.
I had estimated arriving a Old S80 by 13:00, but it turned out to be 14:40 when I got there.
9th May 2011. Day 78. 0 miles. Still
holed up in the RV park, and still blowing, though slowly moderating. I have needed and enjoyed the days off, sleeping
for more than ten hours the last two nights. It should be all right if I get way early tomorrow. The coastal mountain
range is just ahead - straight up 4000 feet. I think I will be walking a bit.
8th May 2011. Day 77. 0 miles. I
woke a little after five, and listened to the light wind, debating whether I should get up and go. I woke again at 07:20
to the sound of a rising, gusting wind, and guilt free, went back to sleep until 09:30. The wind rose all day, with
gusts to 45 knots in the late afternoon. Bicycling dead against it would not have been a proposition. So I got my day
off and went to sleep with the gusts rocking Mandy quite severely. It was just like being anchored behind an island
with a gale blowing and there was the urge to go up and walk around the deck and check the anchor before retiring. It
blew all night.
7th May 2011. Day 76. 50 miles. The
alarm at 04:00 was unwelcome but I was back in Glamis, in among the sand dunes, and off at 05:55. Shortly after departure
I met another cyclist going the other way, Shane. He said g'day, I said, shit, you're not Australian are you and he
said, shit, I can't get away from you bastards. Another bloody refugee from Oz living in the US. It was cool, and the
wind forecast to rise along with the temperature so we kept it brief. Then there was a cool, clear, pleasant downhill
run to the E edge of the Imperial Valley, at which point the transition from absolute desert to lush irrigated produce fields
was shockingly abrupt. A lot like in the Nile Valley. The humidity came up and I could smell things again.
I had thought 2 percent relative humidity was usual, but it apparently ties the all time low record, and has been that way
on and off for a week to ten days in the desert SW. I kept descending reaching - (yes, minus) 148 feet. Below
sea level. It was quite flat, but again as the day wore on the W wind rose and the temperature came up to 98 and with
rough roads it became hard going. Left at Brawley after an apple juice, right at El Centro into a now stiff headwind,
left at Seeley after a large Sprite, and then two miles S to the RV park. I bought and consumed two cans of 7-Up at
the office and then joined Diane in Mandy. I ate, I slept, I drank iced water and considered the morrow. I have
had 13 days straight, some of them hard, and some very, very hot. The forecast is for 25 plus knots of headwind for
the next two days and I'm tending towards at least one day off. I am very tired.
6th May 2011. Day 75. 61 miles. Again,
a longer day than anticipated. 06:10 start from Blythe and I turned S shortly thereafter to transition from I-10 to
I-8. It was odd going through the irrigated fields in the early morning, because the air was humid for the first time
in more than a month and I could feel the moisture and smell the smells. It didn't last, however, as I started to climb
away from the Colorado River valley. The map showed a gradual climb, but it quickly changed to series of undulations
where you'd go up a hundred feet quite steeply, and then descend ninety, again and again. Even at the top at 1200 feet
the road descended the same way and as the temperature approached 100F I quickly became bored with the whole deal. A
State Trooper stopped to check I was all right as I walked up one hill. He was the first to stop in the entire trip
so far. I thanked him. The immigration check point waved me through, and finally the descent started. This really
is awful country: it may as well be the bloody moon. There is just nothing. From the top I could see the sand
dunes ahead and speeded up down to Glamis. At that point I was all but out of water and was very glad to find a store
there. There was another cyclist resting there and he asked me how it was going. I was unable to speak intelligibly
until taking a mouthful of water. It was now 102 and breathing through your mouth with two percent humidity it all just
dries out and gums up and all you can do is croak. Diane arrived as I finished my first drink and then my second and
I was very, very glad to stop at 13:10. I was a bit dehydrated and drank a lot and slept for an hour once we had Mandy
(the RV) set up. In El Centro it was 105, and at one point, in the truck with the AC flat out the thermometer said 122
outside. I'm not sure whether to believe it or not, but it sure is hot.
5th May 2011. Day 74. 63 miles. It
was meant to be a short day to Quartzsite, so I set the alarm for 07:00 but was wide awake at 06:00 and pedaling away at 06:50.
It was forecast to be hot so an earlier start didn't hurt. No breakfast and the two cafes I passed were closed.
There was the usual climb out of the night's location (not sure why this is) before a good downhill run, another climb (not
too bad) and the descent into Quartzsite. I arrived at 11:00 and stopped for a liter of Sprite. Diane was still
hours away, so I elected to press on. There was another climb on a poor secondary road and things were getting very
hot. I stopped frequently (every couple of miles) to drink and rest. And then another long descent to the Colorado
River and California where it took me a while to find my way onto the pedestrian path across the bridge. Ehrenberg was
all but non-existent so again I pressed on, to Blythe. It was now the middle of the day and the electronic sign in the
center of town read 105 degrees F. That is officially hot to be riding a bicycle. Very reminiscent of Summer days
of childhood heading to the beach. I finally stopped at McDonalds (a suitable landmark for Diane to find) about 13:30
- I'm not exactly sure of the time since in quick succession I had a large orange juice, a plain double quarter pounder with
cheese, a cup of coffee, a small milkshake, a medium milkshake, a large milkshake, and a medium orange juice. This was
a late breakfast, and remember, I have a license to consume calories, so long as I ride. I am still losing weight and
my skin is starting to hang off me. A much longer and harder day than intended, but nice to get some miles done, and
to finally reach California.
4th May 2011. Day 73. 53 miles. Breakfast
at the Horseshoe Cafe and I started the moderate climb out of Wickenburg at 06:30 in cool conditions. After the rise
there was a gentle downhill run with a light following breeze all the way. I met Geoff going to Colorado at a stop for
a drink, and then Bill and John later down the track. They were heading for Virginia. Another stop for another
drink at Walden and the last five miles of an easy day into Salome. I stopped at the first motel ($35) and that evening
they ran me into town to get a pizza. It reached the high 90s today but I was finished by 12:30 well before it got too
hot.
3rd May 2011. Day 72. 43 miles. Same
sort of get away at 07:20 after scrambled eggs for breakfast. Cool to start with but the forecast was mid nineties and
I believe it got close. There was another ten miles of urban traffic, sometimes polite, and sometimes not before the
long straight slightly uphill run to Wickenburg. I stopped for a drink at a service station, and then for a break at
a rest area but otherwise just ploughed on. It seemed wrong to stop at 12:40, but with five and a half hours down and
the temperature up I called it a day. I'm trying to ease up a little due to the rising temperatures and the fact that
I've had eight days straight some of which were hard. You tend to be a bit constrained by the spacing of accommodation
as well, and the wind may make a day's run easy, or very hard. Today it was mostly astern, which I really appreciated,
and it made it a relatively easy day. I climbed from 1100 to 2200 but it was so gradual it was not an issue.
2nd May 2011. Day 71. 56 miles. Phoenix
is a very low density sprawling city, much like Melbourne and I spent the entire day and 56 miles traversing urban and suburban
areas. Navigation was an issue, requiring many stops to check the next turn, or what to do to get past the end of the
road. It started off cool at 07:25 and with a quartering wind and a dead flat run I made good time. The enthusiasm
of the morning set in (I'm going like a train and maybe will go on to Wickenburg) to be replaced by the afternoon endurance
mind set (only another half mile and there will be only five miles to go). There were many, many gum trees and the smell
of the eucalyptus oil was most evocative of the bush at home. There must be Oz expats here since I passed four blocks
of apartments called the Canberra, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney apartments. The bike path along the canal was brilliant,
with lots of ducks on the water or asleep in the shade of the trees which line the bank. As I passed just a couple of
feet away the ducks slept on, quite unfussed. There were even two mothers with their new born ducklings. One was
giving instruction in swimming, the other in sleeping. Phoenix has done a great job with trees. They are everywhere
and one wonders if their profusion has created a less extreme microclimate. After the canal path it was suburban streets
and as the temperature rose, the traffic and noise started to pall. I was glad (as always) to reach the motel at 15:30.
This was my second day below 2000 feet after weeks well above. Perhaps it's all in my head but the air feels thicker,
and when you work on a hill, it is noticeably easier. On the other hand, less encouraging, is the appearance of a shadow
meandering across my path every couple of hours, as the latest vulture scout checks that I'm still moving. That's been
going on regularly for a week now.
1st May 2011. Day 70. 57 miles. I
allowed myself until 05:00 before getting up, a compromise between arriving at a motel too early, and getting some miles behind
me before the inevitable head wind strengthened. On the road at 05:40. An automated sign announced that the temperature
was plus 38 degrees F. Nice of them to put the plus in: I don't want to be around when the minus is displayed.
On the way out of Globe I saw two gum trees, the first I have seen (on this cycling trip) with many more to come in CA.
In Miami, AZ, six miles up the track, there are huge mining operations, including BHP Copper Inc. I wonder if an Oz
expat planted the trees. Then followed a hard slog over 7 miles from 3200 to 4600 feet. I could pedal a good chunk
of it, and only walked some. The descent was through a spectacular gorge. I wanted to take photos, but stopping
was not an option. At the bottom, I arrived in Superior, cold and stiff after riding the brakes all the way down, and
trying to concentrate on the road surface, yet still look around. One bridge was a wonder, and I got lucky in the tunnel
with no traffic coming up behind me. There was nowhere to go if they had. I searched for somewhere to have coffee,
and had just given up (too early for breakfast anywhere in Globe) when I came across the Buckboard Cafe. Wonderful omelette,
home fries (how do you make them?), orange juice (fresh squeezed) and a mug of coffee to wrap my hands around. Just
perfect. Then followed a warmer run down a gentle grade to Florence Junction and, with the NW wind rising, a fair pedal
over undulating ground to Apache Junction, just E of Phoenix. The last 10 miles on 60 were tricky. The shoulder
was unrideable, so I had to try and stay on the white line marking the edge as the traffic, which was heavy (for a Sunday
morning) whizzed by. The mobile homes were the worst. It seems they had no idea where the right hand side of there
vehicle was, and all came too close. I was at the motel in Apache Junction by 13:15 after seven and a half hours.
Given yesterday's long haul, I was very pleased with today. No sore muscles, and I quite enjoyed myself. The lighter
winds may have had something to do with it.
30th April 2011. Day 69. 78 miles.
I set the alarm for 04:30 and was cycling out of Safford at 05:10. The idea was to get the bulk of the miles over with
before the WNW set in. It didn't work out. There was a 5 to 10 kt headwind to start with and at 07:00 it came
up for real. I am now paying for the decision to go against the prevailing wind for this time of year. I stopped
for a drink at Ed's, just outside the Apache reservation, and chatted with the clientele, and then repeated the process inside
the reservation at Peridot, and again at the casino just before leaving the reservation. The Apaches were very friendly
and eager to talk. All commented I was going the wrong way because of the wind. One offered to sing a song to
change it to a tail wind. The wind did, for some reason, probably geographical, diminish quite a lot for a couple of
hours in the middle of the day, but the last 20 miles to Globe were unrelenting up hill and into a gusty, strong headwind.
I finished up at the motel 12 hours after setting out. A very slow average speed, but given the wind, I was happy to
have made it at all. My longest day. I keep thinking I am well hydrated, stopping to drink frequently from the
water bottles, and taking fruit juice or Sprite at any service station that comes along. Nevertheless, at the end of
the day I drink multiple glasses or bottles of orange juice, apple juice and Sprite. My two lasting impressions of Texas,
New Mexico and Arizona so far, are the smell of skunk, and the ticking of the highway metal guard rails as the sun first hits
them and they start to expand. Apart from the aridity, adverse wind, multiple climbs and temperature that is.
29th April 2011. Day 68. 48 miles.
I went to bed at 19:00 last night and awoke just after first light at 06:20. I packed up camp, had a can of fruit for
breakfast and was going at 07:25 New Mexico time, or 06:25 Arizona time. I was down to a bottle and a half of water.
I had basically camped at the pass, and after a few hundred yards was off on the 14 mile run to Three Ways. I had to
ride the brakes a lot so it wasn't all that fast. You go slower on a steep descent that a gradual one. I arrived
in Three Ways intending to take on water at the store, but with the time change, it was too early and it was still shut.
So on I went, sipping occasionally, and working straight up from 3200 to 4800 into a rising head wind, and rapidly rising
temperature. As always, I was stuffed at the top, but the run down was not too steep, and went on and on allowing me
to make good time. I finished my water on the approach to Safford and stopped for apple juice followed by Sprite at
a service station. I had intended going on to Thatcher, but the number on the map for the motel there turned out to
be in Safford. It had a restaurant opposite and by now the wind was howling, the dust was blowing, and it was getting
bloody hot. I stopped, and the nice restaurant supplied breakfast at 12:15 Arizona time. I drank a large grapefruit
juice and then a large orange juice, so I guess I was not hydrared again. Forgot to mention, yesterday, just short of
Cliff I saw my second roadrunner, running across the road of course.
28th April 2011. Day 67. 67 miles.
A long day, from 06:25 to 15:25. After the steep climb out of Silver City, there was a glorious downhill run of about
25 miles, which put me ahead of the game for the day. I stopped in Cliff for a drink, and bought an extra bottle of
water. With the full pack and additional water I was the most laden I have been. Then there was the slow rise
to where I turned off 180 onto 78 and a steeper climb started. Once through Mule Creek it really started to get to me.
After two hard days, and at the end of a long day, the climb to 6200 hurt. I was trying to conserve water since I would
be camping out, and the hills seemed very long. I bypassed the first camp ground and the next four miles to the one
next to the pass were the hardest I've done. I staggered into camp, and had trouble putting up the tent. I kept
falling over. Some water and a short sleep put things to rights. I have now, just, crossed into Arizona.
The country along the first bit of 78 was quite good, if one allows for the drought. I really liked it. The wind
tomorrow is forecast to be bad, but if I can get away early, the run is downhill with a thousand foot climb in the middle.
The humidity has been staying at between 4 and 8 percent for a couple of weeks, and my lips and hands are starting to crack.
Painful and annoying.
27th April 2011. Day 66. 44 miles.
And another bloody hard day it was too. A deliberately late start at 08:00 giving the wind a chance to subside further,
and in the mistaken belief of an easy day. From the drop off point it was four miles to Emory Pass at 8828 feet.
I walked much of this last thousand feet up and then had to ride the brakes and proceed cautiously down the steep descent
on the other side. The bad surprise was that after that descent, there was another thousand foot climb, and then another
descent and yet another climb of only slightly less. I went though Hanover which had another horrible climb on the other
side out of the river valley, and then past the Santa Ana open cut copper mine and descended into Central, which also had
a horrible climb on the other side. I got to walk quite a bit and even have a blister to prove it. The remaining
seven miles was a succession of hills to be walked, and descents to be coasted down. Just before Hanover I met Tom going
the other way. We were both glad to stop and talk for a while. There were many, many cars and vans on the road
with bike racks and/or bicycles on top. It appears the the Tour of Gila is a very big deal international bike race series,
which started yesterday and goes until the weekend. I think I got about the last motel room in Silver City when I arrived
at 15:10 and certainly had to pay for it. As I tried to get my bicycle inside, I asked a man approaching the door "Can
you hold the door for me please mate" to which he replied, "No worries mate". He was from Brisbane and
part of one of the Australian racing teams. After dinner I had a longish talk to one of the New Zealander team who explained
everything that was going on. Fortunately they race to the N tomorrow as I go W.
26th April 2011. Day 65. 36 miles.
Seems like a mere 36 miles was an easy day, but, the climb was from 4200 feet to 7200 against a very strong headwind.
The forecast was 30 - 40 kts with gusts to 60, more or less on the nose, of course. I woke at 05:00 and there being
only a light breeze was away from the State Park about 05:50. Once I turned W at Caballo the climb started, albeit gradual
as I worked across the higher plain W of the lake. The mountains grew closer and the wind rose. It was a
bit rugged after that. On one occasion the cross wind swirling through the canyons threatened to blow me off my bike,
and even though it was the only real descent all day I had to get off and walk or scoot along for a while. Several times
I was on a gentle down slope, in low/low gear, and working hard just to keep moving. I was happy to reach Hillsboro,
and even happier to make Kingston. I then set out on the ascent, over 8 miles to the Emory Pass at 8228 feet, walking
a lot of the way. The wind gusts were now extreme and brought me to a stop several times. I stopped at 12:30,
very tired. That was enough. On return to the park with Diane, the wind roared all afternoon and into the evening.
25th April 2011. Day 64. 47 miles.
The wind blew quite hard after 03:00 and I lay listening to it before the alarm rang at 04:40. I was back at 185 and
158 and away at 06:00 at first light. There are three things that preoccupy me - the road condition, the gradient,
and the wind speed and direction. Today the first two were great, but the wind was up. It seems to have been katabatic
since it was cold and coming from the W. It was a beam wind to start with, dropped a bit from 07:00 to 07:30 and then
came up to 20 kts on the nose for the last 10 miles or so into Hatch and the 5 miles on the other side. That portion
was a bit rugged, in low/low gear all the way. There was a Border Patrol check point after Radium Springs and I was
treated as somewhat of a novelty - they even offered water and a snack which I declined with thanks. It was quite cool
early but, as always, began to warm. The wind died away as I went through Salem and the rest of the run to CR41 a few
miles N of Arrey was most pleasant. I stopped there at a small shelter associated with the baseball park at 11:45, unloaded
the bike, lay down and dozed till Diane arrived and we went on to the State Park. A workmanlike day still following
the Rio Grand which I crossed and recrossed a few times. Still a lot of pecans and irrigation and cultivation.
24th April 2011. Day 64. 0 miles.
Good decision. It blew like hell all day.
23rd April 2011. Day 62. 56 miles.
Just a cup of coffee for breakfast - I was too early, departing at 06:10. There was a surprising climb out of El Paso
which made me work first up. At each rise I'd think that was the last, but then there was another ridge ahead.
I finally cleared the last one and the going thereafter was all but utterly flat, paralleling the Rio Grand and crossing it
from time to time. I finally exited Texas and crossed into New Mexico, officially (in my mind at least) reaching the
two thirds of the way point. Very pretty pecan groves lined the way. The wind did the same as the last couple
of days and came up light around 08:30 and then continued to rise. Between the state line and Las Cruces there were
literally a couple of hundred cyclists on the road. One even exhorted me to "keep on pedaling". A gentleman
passed and then dropped back and we had a talk. This is apparently what a lot of people in the area do on a Saturday
morning - just go for a ride. All were moving right along, some exceptionally so. I went on through Las Cruces
and, being early, kept on for another 8 or 9 miles. By noon, the wind was way up and things were unpleasant with blowing
dust so I was glad to have got as far as I did, but glad to be picked up as well after stopping at 12:10. After 9 days
on the go (if you count my 30 mile day off) and with stronger winds forecast for tomorrow, I'll take a day off.
22nd April 2011. Day 61. 55 miles.
Despite their assurances, Angie's restaurant was not open at 06:00 so just before first light I was away. Very flat
all the way and with a very light head wind I made good and easy time. The open irrigated fields gave way to pecan plantations,
some very new and others in full production. The irrigation infrastructure was newer and more extensive, and perhaps
a third of the plantations were flooded or partially so. The wind increased a bit at 08:00 but was only slightly for'd
abeam so was not an issue. I stopped about 12 miles out for coffee and a sausage McMuffin before the long run into El
Paso right along the Mexican border. The wind was now strong and on the nose and I was glad for the early start and
finish. I was in the motel in the CBD by 12:45. A full 6 plus hours of effort. It seemed a bit wimpy to
stop so early, but when I went out to set Spot off, it was nearly blown off the wall I placed it on. Glad I stopped
when I did.
21st April 2011. Day 60. 30 miles.
Today was meant to be a day off, but I got further than planned yesterday, and so while today is still my day off I went the
30 miles, my shortest day. We packed up Mandy (the RV) and I was set down ready to go at 08:00. There was an hour
pick up as we crossed into the Mountain Time Zone just out of Van Horn. There was a great downhill run to start with,
and a short stretch on I10 before turning off onto farm roads. The route was flat, and paralleled the Rio Grand river,
which was about half a mile S and visible from the green line of trees along it. I got very close to the border and
there were many border patrol cars running back and forth. As I worked NW along the river's large flood plain irrigated
fields started to replace the desert. The was a canal alongside the road, complete with two hopefuls fishing, and I
presume the water is lifted out of the Rio Grand, and then with the help of the odd lift pump, runs for some distance for
the farms to use. All of the fields were meticulously ploughed. I saw one with water entering in one corner, filling
all of the furrows across it's expanse, and then exiting back into the canal in the opposite corner. The job of getting
the gradients so perfect must be massive. A train passed while I was stopped for a drink. Five locomotives and
103 freight cars. I met Bill just short of Fort Hancock. He was cycling solo, but had excellent credentials, having
cycled Perth to Sydney last year. Wow. I stopped off at Angie's Restaurant to check the menu and the hours, before
getting to the motel opposite just before noon. An early, easy day, but the wnd was starting to rise from the WNW and
for my day off, with a motel available here, and no other before El Paso, that will do.
20th April 2011. Day 59. 43 miles.
The winds were forecast to be a little lighter today, increasing again tomorrow, so a day off was deferred. Cool and
clear at 07:20 as I pedaled out onto I10 again. There was a climb from 4100 to 4600 immediately, and again the trucks
helped suck me up the incline. Then the descent down the edge of the bowl and a long run across to the other side, now
on the service road. The wind came up early, at about 09:30, but despite the occasional gust, was light to moderate,
if on the nose. I stopped in the dying town of Sierra Blanca for a drink, noted the prominent white mountain nearby,
called Diane for an early pick up, and continued on up the other side of the bowl to 4700. I stopped at 12:45 after
a fair average day's work having just cleared the lip and started the descent. I could have gone on, but this being
the sixth straight day thought it better to be conservative. Strong winds they say tomorrow, but it is downhill and
if I stop at Fort Hancock, it will be a short day.
19th April 2011. Day 58. 43 miles.
I set off from 5 miles S of Kent at 07:40 where Diane dropped me. We had marked the fence so could identify the exact
spot in what could be another barren planet, though only just off the interstate. It was a good run into Kent with a
strong wind from the WSW as the road tended NNE. Once I turned W again I was on the shoulder of I10, my first time on
the interstate. The surface was superb, the mesas to the S provided some protection from the rising and veering wind,
and even the draft from the huge trucks helped push me up the hills. I made very good time until turning off onto the
service road with 21 miles to go where the surface was not as good. Also the road now set off across a large open and
dusty bowl across which the wind, now dead W (my direction of travel) howled. The road sign "Strong Wind Currents"
was accurate. I shifted to low, low gear and just ground out the remaining miles into 20kts gusting 25 or above.
It's hard to tell the wind strength when riding, but some gusts almost brought me to a stop. I counted down the interstate
mile markers, visible from the service road. It took 700 cranks of the pedals to complete a mile, and at each mile I
would get off for a minute or two, drink some water, and then go back to counting pedal rotations. As always, it was
warming up, and I lurched into Van Horn with the water, including reserve, almost gone, as was I. Very hard ride, and
very glad to reach the RV at 13:35.
18th April 2011. Day 57. 47 miles.
I lay awake half the night listening to the rising wind and wondering if the next leg would even be possible. I left
at 07:20 anyway with a W gale blowing. The first 8 miles or so were relatively flat with just a gentle rise. The
wind still blew but as yesterday the canyon walls provided some protection and sometimes it was dead calm, and at others,
low gear and working hard into it. Then the climbs started. Fort Davis was at 4880 or so, and I started into the
routine of walking the steep bits rising finally to 6240 near the McDonald Observatory. As I approached, I stopped for
a leak (good sign - hydrated) and to take a photo. That's when I realized I had left my water bottle belt behind, with
two water bottles, wallet, Spot and iPod. So water discipline would be required. The wind really howled through
the passes as I approached the top, and once, walking and rounding a corner it stopped me dead in my tracks. I stood
for some seconds unable to even walk against it before there was a lull and I continued. Out on top the country looked
much better as I descended to 5800, climbed again to 6100, and then did the same again for the third peak before starting
the descent on the other side. I presume they have bike races through these mountains. In many places there were
the letters HC with an arrow marked on the road. Now I know what an HC climb is like. I walked. When I finally
reached the last rise, there was a 15 miles downhill run from 6000 down to 4800 again. It was a perfect grade, and for
some reason the wind stayed mostly astern, so it was a great and fast section. I had thought that 30 miles would be
good for the day, given the conditions, but it turned out a lot better. Diane left to meet me early, having noticed
the water bottles left behind, and caught me at 12:30. I put the belt back on, and she went ahead 12 miles and waited
for me. I reached her about 13:30 after a surprisingly good day. Two mountain sections down, two to go.
The next goes to 8500.
17th April 2011. Day 56. 55 miles.
Today was hard, made so by the wind. A can of fruit for breakfast and on the bike at first light, 07:10. It was
easy going to start with as I headed for Alpine, and initially the wind came up from the SE giving me a great, slightly downhill
run on a cold (42F) morning for 8 miles or so. 22 miles in, however, at the intersection with 67, I came out from behind
the mountain range, turned slightly S of W, and started to climb into an increasing head wind. Several trains went by
- they were very long. The motel last night had a notice in the room, apologizing for the trains running by at night.
Little did they know I would have paid extra for them. I was very glad, and very tired on reaching Alpine after 31 miles,
and stopped at McDonalds for a drink, coffee, and to my delight at 11:15, an egg McMuffin. I then turned off onto 118
and with the wind abeam made better time heading just W of N. But the climb started, and as I worked my way up the canyons
the wind came more and more strongly, more and more often from ahead. I walked a few climbs, one in particular and topped
out at 4998 feet: it crossed my mind to hold the GPS above my head to get 5k, but decided that will come soon enough anyway.
Many fires have burned around Fort Davis and there were several burnt out houses apparent. There was smoke away to the
N, and a long lived willy-willy snaking across a burnt out area. To my surprise I only saw one property with a firebreak
plowed along his fence line. His pasture was intact. The last few miles were very hard, as it was now hot, and
although downhill, because of the wind, I had to use my lowest gear and pedal like hell. Diane passed me a couple of
miles out and I met her at the RV park just in time to help with the setup right on 15:00. I was very tired.
16th April 2011. Day 55. 54 miles.
I had to linger over my coffee at the truck stop across the road, waiting for it to get light enough to be safe. I departed
at 07:10 in clear and cool conditions. The wind was a light following breeze, though I'm sure that if I had been going
the other way I would have described it as moderate. The Sanderson Canyon just went on and on with a gentle upslope
that never seemed apparent and I was always surprised to see how much altitude I was gaining. In fact the canyon never
really ended but just petered out when it finally reached the open plain above. The railway surveyors in the 1800s must
have thought it Christmas when they discovered this gentle grade all the way. The wind on the plain was S and gusting,
so a few of the hills were harder than the others. I reached 4300 feet before descending into Marathon at 4075 feet
arriving about 14:00. Despite the climb, the day was average when it came to tiring. The country is now really
arid with badlands topography abundant and flat areas as well with only rocks growing on them. There was evidence of
several largish spot fires originating on the N side of the road, one presumes from cigarettes. There are multiple large
brush fires burning in West Texas at the moment, and there was a lot of smoke around until the wind got up later in the day.
I saw 7 deer and 2 javelinas grazing on the side of the road, early. The Southern Pacific railway line paralleled the road
for all but a short section, and I got to say "train" once.
15th April 2011. Day 54. 42 miles.
No clouds but cool with a moderate NNW wind at 08:50 when I got away from the drop off point. The wind was an issue
all day as I steadily climbed from 1800 to 2800 feet in Sanderson. Not bad, and even on occasion got abaft the beam,
but it certainly made the going harder, and progress slower. As on other days, it became progressively warmer, but not
bad - maybe high 80s. The last bit was up a winding open gorge, and I kept expecting to have to climb out of it at some
point, but it went on and on, slowly rising and at this point into a moderate head wind. It was a pleasant surprise
when instead of a climb, I arrived in Sanderson about 14:50. I stopped for a drink at the service station in town and
got motel and food recommendations. I am accordingly in the "Outback Oasis" motel. They have a picture
of a kangaroo in the office.
14th April 2011. Day 53. 0 miles.
We needed an administration day, and with 40 - 50 kts headwind forecast drove back into Del Rio for the truck to be serviced,
buy groceries, buy a tyre for the bike as a spare, collect mail, and so on. It was calm early but the NNW set in hard
later in the day. I hope it moderates as forecast overnight.
13th April 2011. Day 52. 40 miles.
I set off from our campsite in Seminole Canyon State Park at 08:00 and descended back to highway 90. The wind was light
SE (yay) on a clear cool morning. The Pecos River was a real surprise. After so many "rivers" that were
nothing but dry gravel watercourses, here was a river, wide, apparently deep, and cut through the rock into a canyon.
The road rose in a series of waves to 1800 feet before the steep descent and subsequent ascent back to 1800 through the Lozier
Canyon, the first sign of "badlands" topography. The was a group of 13 riders going the other way as part
of an organized and supported group but they all pedaled by except one lady who stopped to explain who they were. The
Adventure Cycling truck behind kind of gave it away though. They were all lightly laden and on semi racing bikes.
I felt a bit wimpy stopping after 40 miles at 12:20, but any further meant a longer run for Diane to retrieve me, and the
next and only accommodation for a while is Sanderson, now 42 miles ahead. There is a balance between planning evening
stops, obtaining food and drink, allowing for the terrain, getting away early to avoid later heat, and arriving too early
at your destination for the night. And the next few days take me up over 6000 feet and I'm not sure how I will take
to it with the temperature in the mid 90s.
12th April 2011. Day 51. 72 miles.
Dinner of a four egg omelette last night, and bacon and eggs for breakfast in a tiny cafe near the Fort Clark resort where
I stayed last night. It is a converted cavalry fort, where George S. Patton once served. 07:50 with a full stomach
and a pleasant 18 mile run more or less downhill to Del Rio. On the run in to the city, the Air Force base (Laughlin)
was busy, with multiple jets and prop trainers doing touch and go landings in wild profusion. It was definitely my kind
of air traffic control, with the trainers doing short, short finals and wheeling in for runway right, while the jets lined
up a little further out for runway left, but peeled off as soon as they were airborne again. The approach over my head
was maybe 20 feet up across the road. It was warming again but the wind held SE and rose so I pushed on across the dam,
and started climbing again for Comstock. There was a short pause for the border patrol inspection point where a gentleman
without humour had to see my green card, another pause for a drink when I arrived in town, and then on to the State Park where
Diane caught me up after I had waited for 30 seconds - just time for a drink. The border patrol is a massive industry,
with vehicles patrolling 334 yesterday, and all along 90 today. In Comstock there was a base with maybe 50 or 60 trucks
and much activity for what I took to be a shift change. It was my longest day to date, but with a good breeze behind
it was not too taxing, and when you have the wind with you, use it, for it's sure to turn at some stage.
11th April 2011. Day 50. 49 miles.
Two big events from yesterday that I failed to mention. Firstly, I saw my first Roadrunner. There is no mistaking
them - the cartoon version captures their unique configuration perfectly. Sighted just approachng Camp Wood. The
second event was passing longitude 100W. I started at 81W heading for 117W so in longitude, if not mileage terms, I
should be just over half way. The front that showed no sign
of arriving finally did so at 01:00 with strong winds turning NW and just a couple of showers of rain. On a cool clear
and windy morning Diane dropped me off in Camp Wood and I belted off SSE downhill with 20kts nearly directly astern.
I reached the turn into 334 from 55 in 80 minutes for the 19 miles, but then turned WNW directly into the wind and uphill
for 18 miles on a poor road. Very hard going and I stopped for a brief rest to drink and ease my bum several times.
And then again the undulations started, but not too bad. It grew hot, and the wind stayed up as I descended into Brackettville
and was at the motel by 14:15. I had miscalculated today's distance, thinking it was only 41 miles, so the optimism
of the good start gave way to a dogged grind when things got tougher and I realized it would be close to a 50 day. But
all right. The country is really arid now - semi desert.
10th April 2011. Day 49. 36 miles.
Overcast still with a moderate S wind as I started from 1640 feet at 08:40. And I was straight at it. I've been
whining about the climbs, but today made that just silly. The first went to 2358 in a couple of miles, most of which
I walked, and then the road descended back to 1600 feet at Leakey on the Frio River before climbing back up to 2364 in another
couple of miles. Then out on the ridge it was a switchback, up and down a couple of hundred feet each time. I
walked maybe 4 or 5 miles in the 36, pushing the laden bike as I went. Nevertheless, I made 6.2 average speed overall,
including rest stops, so I was happy. The descent back to 1600 feet was all right, but you have to ride the brakes all
the way as images of what would happen (death) if they failed flashed through your mind. I ended up in Camp Wood at
14:10 by which time it was getting into the 90s again (no sign of the forecast front) and a strong head wind made the last
few miles hard going, even if slightly downhill. I have pulled up pretty well for the most challenging climbing day
so far, and may even be getting fit. The icing on the cake was Australian meat pies for dinner. There is a motorcycle
museum just outside Vanderpool. It is run by an expat Australian, Allan, and he and his wife make most excellent and
authentic meat pies. Diane bought 16.
9th April 2011. Day 48. 0 miles.
As threatened I took today off. Strong S wind, temperature in the 90s, and muscles a bit sore. We attended a lecture
on the geology of the area, ate ice cream, and then went into Uvalde to get cell service. A 30 mile trip each way because
Verizon misrepresents it's coverage. Beyond San Antonio service is hard to come by. We shopped there and had dinner
at "a good restaurant with a good choice of menu". We both had ribs because that's about all we fancied.
The service was poor but we philosophized, when in the SW, do as the SWesterners do.
8th April 2011. Day 47. 53 miles.
I knew it was going to be a longish day, with some climbing to do, so I had my Eggs Benedict at IHOP at 06:40 and was going
by 07:20 in somewhat dark conditions due to the low overcast. Very humid. It was a fairly flat run to start with,
but approaching Hunt the undulations started and continued. Initially I had descended to 1640 feet and by early afternoon
crested at 2354. I thought I had been hydrating well, walking the odd hill and drinking a bit as I did. A gentleman
stopped just ahead of me on the road before the 187 turn off and as I approached offered a half gallon container of some cool
sports drink. As we chatted over 6 or 7 minutes, I disposed of it all. He had been photographing the Bluebonnet
wild flowers (which explains the hillsides totally covered with small blue/purple blooms) and took a couple of photos of me
in riding mode and promised to e-mail them. The terrain became more or less level overall, but rising and falling a
couple of hundred feet again and again. The sun was now out (the clouds burned off about 11:15 and I was grateful for
the 4 hours of them) and I believe the 94 degree forecast was pretty right. I was starting to slow and was happy to reach
the steep descent into Vanderpool with little water left. I reached the 337 intersection at 14:45 after a long hard
day and found, in the biker bar there, that they offered Perrier. Odd. Diane arrived and I forget to set Spot
off so have to remember to do it when I depart. I think the day may have taken a little more out of me than I thought,
so with strong winds forecast for tomorrow, may well take a rest day, after 5 days at it, the last two or three being hard.
7th April 2011. Day 46. 45 miles.
The first part of the day was hard, with the same succession of creeks, to descend into and then ascend out of.
It was overcast and pleasant with a moderate SW wind slowing things down as I departed Seven Sister Road at 08:30. I
failed to check my map once and ended up 3 miles past a turnoff down to the Guadelupe River. There was a gentleman practising
calf roping using a dummy calf and after watching for a while (and being suitably impressed) I walked over and discussed my
location. He came up with a direct route back to the track so I did not need to retrace my steps. I commiserated
with him when he said he had an Australian brother-in-law. After crossing the river there was still a bit of the old
up and down until Comfort, after which it was an essentially flat run, with a gentle upslope to Kerrville at 1760 feet.
It became quite hot as the cloud burned off but the wind dropped away and although I was tiring at the end, it was a fair
day's run, finishing up at 15:00. I chose the motel based on there being an IHOP opposite.
5th April 2011. Day 44. 43 miles.
Breakfast at McDonalds and then cycling by 08:40 on a clear cool morning. It was relatively flat to start with but with
a light uphill grade. A couple on a tandem powered by in the opposite direction but just waved and didn't stop.
I stopped in Kyle at the bike shop there and they were magnificent. The rear tyre was bulging and waving all over the
place on the rim and starting to cause the rear end to wander around when coasting downhill. They removed the tyre but
could find no structural issues but we replaced it nevertheless. They took the more robust one off the front and put
it on the rear and put a new lighter one, being all they had, on the front. Off I went again at 11:30, most grateful,
and started into the hills immediately. None was terrible and despite the steady rise over the day to 1180 feet, I've
had worse days in that "rolling" stuff. I went on through Wimberley and met up with Diane at 14:40.
I'd had enough but was happy with the day: I had been concerned about this first mountain range and now think it may be manageable.
The wind was a light N drift to start with, but by afternoon was S again at 10 - 15 with a head component.
4th April 2011. Day 43. 45 miles.
There was a cold front forecast but it was overcast, humid, and warm with light S wind when I set off from the pick up point
at 08:30. I had been told the section through the State Park was hilly, but the first mile was very difficult, and then,
after that, they had a sign warning of steep grades. So the first 13 miles were gut wrenching. I was very hot
and sweating and going through water at a great rate, when I heard the wind change coming through the tree tops at 09:40.
It was a real Melbourne cool change with the temperature dropping from the low 80s to the low 60s with one wind gust.
Outstanding. Shortly after the wind rose from the NW, and fortuitously I turned W and then S later. Through Bastrop,
past the turn off to the RV park and then a long run S, and then SW and then W down to Lockhart. Later in this stretch
the wind rose to achieve the forecast 40kt gusts, and staying upright, on the road, and clear of passing traffic became difficult
in the beam wind. The day turned out to be easier than I had expected and I was in the motel by 14:30. One dead
nasty snake on the road and one live nasty (defined as having the diamond shaped viper head) young snake warming himself on
the road and whom I just missed running over. The inevitable "Rattlesnake Lane" was nearby. The country
is definitely more arid, with the occasional cactus by the side of the road and a scattering of oil well pumps.
3rd April 2011. Day 42. 0 miles.
Rest day, and given the strong SW wind, and that my track is SW, this was a really good idea. Reading and shopping
for tinned sausages and tinned fruit for when I have to camp out. The ravioli cold was not good last time. I also
bought needle, webbing and thread and repaired my water bottle holding belt. It was disintegrating too. Not a
pretty fix, but it should hold. I am glad for my Cub's sewing badge experience.
2nd April 2011. Day 41. 52 miles.
Overcast all day, but very humid. Started at 09:10 when Diane backtracked with me to Burton. I turned off busy
290 onto rural 237 and found traffic incredible, bumper to bumper passing me until Round Top, when all the traffic was coming
the other way with about a 5 mile backup. I don't know if it happens every Saturday, or this was a once a year thing,
but there must have been 50 antique shows along the 10 miles either side of Round Top, with people and traffic everywhere
and the police out directing the bedlam. So much for that quiet country road. There were some hills early but
then it settled down and after the turn at La Grange I had a following breeze. After yesterday's agony, today was benign
and I went 8 miles further than planned: if there are bikkies left in the bikkie jar, then spend them while you can.
I arrived at the entrance to the National Park at 15:10 and Diane picked me up shortly after. There is a bulge in the
rear tyre, but the wheel is fine and I have a feeling it's been there for a while. I'll watch it. I'll probably
take tomorrow off to let the sore leg muscles recover before the climb commences. I was pleased that after yesterday's
exhaustion, I recovered well today.
1st April 2011. Day 40. 44 miles.
Happiness last night was a dinner of filet steak with two eggs and chips, followed by two scoops of Blue Bell ice cream, and
two Milky Way bars to finish. 08:30 and cool with fog. A good start but as the day wore on, the hills grew
steeper, and the temperature rose to 91 they tell me. I got as high as 536 feet (still nothing I am assured) but it
was that bloody "rolling" business again, except the hills were higher than the descents, and steep. I walked
many, and stopped often, of necessity. I went through all of my water and on reaching Burton at 15:10, downed a large
glass of apple juice, and ten minutes later two pints of grapefruit juice, and 15 minutes later another pint of grapefruit
juice. I had a small piss at 09:45 and then nothing till 19:30. I think this is a fair indication of dehydration
and may explain the two occasions the world lurched while pushing the bike uphill. I'd better pay more attention to
it. Altogether, an exhausting day, though one that went through absolutely beautiful cattle and horse country.
Later in the day, though, the fields were starting to look a little less lush, and a little more arid.
31st March 2011. Day 39. 38 miles.
I slept 12 hours in my tent in the forest and did not get away until 09:15. The weather was great - light winds, clear
sky, mid 70s. The only catch is that I'm back into that "rolling country" again and I found it hard.
Although it was easier (I would bloody well hope so) than last time and I managed the hills better, I still had to walk one.
It was the longest steepest hill so far. I met a German going the other way and he warned of what's to come, and commented
that it was the first green country he'd seen in ages. I stopped for a drink, and then again for coffee (no breakfast)
and was happy to find the Best Western motel in Navasota by 14:45. It was a short day, but a hard day.
30th March 2011. Day 38. 40 miles.
The front went through with little weather and by 08:30 I was away, heading NNW into I bit of headwind. I turned away
West at Coldsprings and it was quite pleasant keeping cool in the overcast conditions. The highest I had reached was
365 feet in Northern Florida, but today reached 415. Tiny compared with what's coming, but the up a bit, and then down
not quite so much, kept me at it. No accommodation in New Waverly but I stopped at the ranger station for the Sam Houston
National Forest and they were happy for me to just prop in the bush somewhere. So I was in camp by 14:30 a few miles
West. I feel as though I should be pushing more and covering more ground, but remain happy enough to give it away after
40 miles. I still have a lump in my bum, and given how I wore myself down before, a little prudence may be wise.
29th March 2011. Day 37. 43 miles.
Overcast with a light following breeze as I set off from Sunday's pick up point at 09:30. It was a pleasant ride, flat
to start with and very easy going until nearing Shepherd the hills started again. Nothing gut wrenching, but enough
to get me into the lowest gear and breathing hard. I managed to find a motel there so didn't have to camp out with the
forecast for a front tonight and over an inch of rain. I was happy to be in by 14:00 as the clouds thickened and it
began to spit. I've taken a look at the next map and fear the real climbing is about to start. I am not at all
sure how I will go, since even the little hills get my full attention. Knee and bum were well behaved - the Butt'r seems
to work well. Pretty country today, and I saw my first Texas longhorn of the ride.
28th March 2011. Day 36. 0 miles.
An administrative and bum rest day. The bicycle panniers had been slowly coming apart, despite strapping them up with
blanket straps. The stitching was poor and pulling through the fabric, which had too coarse a weave. The canvas
shop in Beaumont did a great job repairing them in two hours for me. We went shopping and sent a fax and picked up the
"Butt'r" I bought from Amazon from the UPS store. We'll see if it works better than Vaseline on my bum.
Diane did the laundary too, so I have clean clothes for the morrow.
27th March 2011. Day 35. 48 miles.
You couldn't have asked for a better day. Overcast, cool, the occasional spit of rain, a 10 kt following breeze and
flat terrain. I made very good time, and it was great compared with yesterday. After departing at 08:30 I was
eating a deferred and late breakfast in Silsbee by 11:00. I called Diane and said I'd be going an extra 7 miles from the planned
pick up point - it should make for an easier day next time and I wanted to use the breeze. I was in the truck by 13:30.
We appear to have better cell phone coverage here which makes coordinating much easier, even possible. A good day, which
I think I had better hold in my memory against the not so good ones to come.
26th March 2011. Day 34. 44 miles.
The cold front has come back as a warm front so it was low 80s, partly cloudy and humid with 12kts of SW wind. This
was the first day of consistent head winds and it made it a bit harder and a bit slower. The slower is both because
of reduced speed but also the need for a few more rest stops. But not too bad overall with some flat spots and some
undulations. I was going from 08:40 to 14:40 and am in a motel in Kirbyville having crossed over into Texas just after
noon. I was held up for about 30 minutes when they closed the road for the medevac helicopter after an accident.
A heap of emergency vehicles went by before, and I could see the chopper overhead so knew something was up. One person
from the side of the road was airlifted out but I didn't see what had happened: there was no vehicle in sight. I didn't
ask. You'd think that with four states crossed, and three to go after Texas, I'd be well on my way, but the geography
is such that I'm only one third of the way, with Texas representing one third in itself. So 1100 miles odd down and
more than twice as many to go. Just keep pedaling, keep on pedaling ...
25th March 2011. Day 33. 43 miles.
Back at the pickup point and underway by 09:45. We had to pack up Mandy (the RV) before leaving and we had her in tow.
Met an Australian couple who left San Diego 15th February - they are making incredible time. I was too embarrassed to
ask how far they went each day. Such meetings are a good excuse for a break. It was a beam wind, and I'm back
into slightly undulating country, but it's more a pleasant change than a trial. Back to bloody logging trucks, fully
laden, hurtling along, and giving me very little room as well. I was aiming for DeRidder and was in the motel by 14:45.
A warm day with occasional head winds, and for the second day after a break, not bad, though I was happy to get here.
Bum still sore, but my knee behaved very well the last two days.
24th March 2011. Day 32. 46 miles.
Today is Pierlucio Tinazzi day. If you don't know who he is please Google him. He deserves to be remembered.
Away at 0845 since we had to backtrack to Washington, LA. The bum was a little better than expected, but a little
worse than I had hoped. It got a good squishing and the nodules had flattened out by the end of the day. One incision
is still open and discharging, but it was not nearly as sore as it was. It was a very easy day. Dead flat, with
a fair following breeze. Perfect for me after an 8 day break. Up until today I had seen one snake. A live
grass snake. Today I saw 12 dead snakes on the road, two grass snakes and 10 very nasty looking ones. Snake city.
I'm glad that I didn't have to camp, and Diane picked me up for the trip back to the RV. I finished at 0145, but had
had enough, even at the early hour. The country is covered with shallow ponds, some drying, others with small wire cones
scattered around. The man whose property I was on, waiting for my ride, explained. The pots were harvesting crawfish
from the ponds. Once complete they let the ponds dry and then sow them with rice before flooding them again. During
the summer the rice grows and the crawfish (yabbies) that remain burrow down three feet to where it is cooler and wait.
After the rice harvest, the pools are flooded and seeded with new baby crawfish and the cycle continues. No fertilizer
needed. As he said, the combination is pretty good on a plate too.
23rd March 2011. Day 31. 0 miles.
Better still. I'll give it a go tomorrow. There are still two hard areas, and drainage through one of the slits,
and though it could be a rough, it is time to see what happens.
22nd March 2011. Day 30. 0 miles.
The infection seems a little better.
21st March 2011. Day 29. 0 miles.
Changed antibiotics. The Bactrim was doing little if anything.
20th March 2011. Day 28. 0 miles.
Waiting. No real improvement.
19th March 2011. Day 27. 0 miles.
Waiting.
18th March 2011. Day 26. 0 miles.
Another day waiting for the antibiotics to do their work and for the holes they cut into me to heal. I suppose it will
just take time.
17th March 2011. Day 25. 0 miles.
Good news and bad news. The good is that the two lanced abscesses are cleaning up nicely. The bad news is that
another larger one is developing quickly a little further down the leg despite the antibiotics and the rest and recuperation.
Sorry to give all the clinical details, but it is my major consideration and may require another visit to the medical centre
to be lanced, and/or a change in antibiotic. I have to say though that it very pleasant here in the forest with Diane
reading and taking it easy. There is good bicycling weather going to waste though. 16th March 2011. Day 24. 0 miles.
A good decision to take today off. I slept nearly 14 hours if you count the pre-dinner nap and the after dinner nap.
This morning the (now) two lumps on my bum looked horrible, and felt worse than that. A visit to the regional medical
emergency room, fortuitously 20 minutes down the road resulted in them being lanced, drained and packed with gauze and antibiotics
prescribed. When explaining what I would feel as the Xylocaine was administered, as I lay there, legs spread and on
full display, the doctor said "it was no big thing, no pun intended" and I of course broke up just as the needle
went into a very sensitive area. That didn't help. Amazingly the nurse didn't get it. Anyway I'm now holed
up with Diane in another State Park for at least 48 hours and maybe more. I am getting good nourishment, care and sleep
so hope to be underway again shortly.
15th March 2011. Day 23. 58 miles.
For some reason today seemed very hard, and at the end, in Washington, Louisiana, I was gone. On a cold clear morning
I departed at 07:30 (no breakfast available) and finished at 15:00 after a flat trip. The back roads were horrible,
all broken up and bumpy, which really slows you down and destroys your bum if you don't see the bump coming. I have
some sort of infection in my bum, just where it meets the seat. It feels the size of a squash ball but I'm sure is smaller.
14th March 2011. Day 22. 49 miles.
On a cool and foggy morning I departed at 08:00 and caught the 08:30 ferry across the mighty Mississippi. I made good
progress after that, all of the day's run being flat, flat, flat, as it worked it's way along the outside of the Western river
levee. After yesterday, I was most grateful for the lack of hills. I was hoping to beat the rain to a suitable
camp site, but the "30% chance of showers" turned out to be a major squall line. As the (impressive) roll
cloud approached I was looking for a place to shelter. Ahead, a car pulled out of a neat farm house, and I willed it
to turn right to pass me. I flagged the lady down and she gave permission for me to shelter on the veranda of her son's
house. I was under cover by 13:10 and almost immediately an impressive line of squalls came through. I managed
to catch some rain from the roof before the postal lady made her delivery, and seemed quite unfussed as I introduced myself
and my reason for being there. An hour later the owner returned home, and invited me in (the postal lady said I had
an Australian on my doorstep) and gave me a Coke. It transpired that he is a tail-wheel only ag pilot and I had seen
him spraying earlier in the morning. As you may imagine, the conversation flowed. The only thing that stopped
the aeroplane stories (tail wheel only) was that he had to get to Baton Rouge. By this time, cold and shivering again,
I sat on the porch till 15:40 and continued on in cool, overcast conditions. What had been a head wind had died to a
calm after the storms. Impressive sky still though. He had told me of a motel in Simmesport, and even though it
is the second worst I've been in, I was grateful to stop, it being 17:00, the ground being wet, and having lost two and a
half hours to weather.
13th March 2011. Day 21. 68 miles.
Today was bloody hard yakka. The country I crossed is laced with streams running N to S, and the bicycle track runs
E to W, across the grain of the country, so the whole day, from 08:30 when Diane dropped me off at yesterday's pick up point,
until arriving in St Francisville at 17:10, was spent dropping down to cross a stream, and then climbing up the other side,
again and again without respite. I thought it was bad, and then thought of the original explorers and so shut up.
For them it must have been a nightmare. I thought I did pretty well to only walk up one hill. I dropped the chain
(second time overall) so have impressive looking hands again, despite multiple washes. I really didn't want to go that
far, but there was nowhere to stay before I reached here, and I really wanted a shower and good meal after the day.
Good weather conditions again with overall a slight headwind. Partially cloudy (5 octas StCu/Cu about 5000) and mid
70s again I would guess. I got my good meal.
12th March 2011. Day 20. 46 miles.
Diane dropped me off at Thursday's pick up point and I was away pedaling by 10:00. The first 20 miles were through undulating
pine forests, and an early hill defeated me and I walked. There was only one other, later in the day and that was by
choice, to stretch my legs and for the reasons noted before. There were many logging trucks, fully loaded, barreling
by, and with no shoulder to the road to pull off onto it was a bit nervous making. Mercifully the next 10 or so miles
were river flats, with dairying, and I got a break before more undulating pine forests and then out onto another flood plain
at Tangipahoa, where I arrived at 15:40 and Diane picked me up again. I pulled up better than on the last day of travel,
and, dare I say, it was a moderately enjoyable day's ride. The wind was 15 kts SSW and seemed to be a little more for'd-a-beam
than abaft. But with low 70s temperature I could not complain. My knee gave me hell for the first 20 miles or
so but subsided a little after that. It may have been though, that the pain in my bum and burning thighs going up hills
diverted my attention. It would be interesting to see what is going on inside my left knee. I'm not sure there
is any more damage that can be done, however.
11th March 2011. Day 19. 0 miles.
I took the day off even though it is just 5 days since my last break, but yesterday stuffed me. Hopefully it was just
the limited calorie intake that caused the fatigue. In any event it was no hardship to snuggle up with Diane in her
"fifth wheel" travel trailer and eat good food: I need the calories, don't I? And the view was out over the
lake in the national park. I even got my legs massaged.
10th March 2011. Day 18. 41 miles.
I broke camp on a cold morning and was off again at 07:20. The knee behaved the same as yesterday - sore to start with
but getting better as time went on. The hills grew more numerous, each steeper and sooner than the one before, and with
the now considerable head wind, broke my heart. I ended up walking up a few, which turned out to be a good thing.
Different muscles were in use, and my thighs and calfs and bum got a break. This last was important. I had not
eaten last night (60 hours on a can of cold corned beef) and was happy to stop for a croissandwich, and coffee in Perkinston.
I called Diane and arranged a meeting point at Crossroads. I was beetling along the charted course and turned right
into Holden Road. Surprise, a large road closed sign. But then closed to cars might not mean closed to bicycles
so I continued the half mile to find that they were putting a bridge in, and were driving piles into a 20 yard torrent.
Bugger. So I retraced my steps (up-bloody-hill of course) and then figured out a detour. It was an easy run 3
miles S, downhill to SR26, but then after a mile I had to turn N, uphill into 20 kts of headwind. Double bugger.
I arrived back on track, turned left into Archie Wheat Road, and bugger me dead if there was not another road closed sign.
I was not about to have to do the uphill slog again if I detoured (and being a slow learner) so I again set off the half mile
to see what the story was. Good news and bad news. The good was that this new bridge was partially completed and
with care could be crossed. The bad was that the approaches had not been completed and comprised very soft red clay,
with a 3 feet step up to the bridge deck. My reconnaissance resulted in two very red and squishy shoes almost to the
ankles. I laid some of the construction timbers over the worst of it and then powered on through on foot, pushing the
bike against considerable resistance. The dead lift up to the bridge and controlled descent on the other side were taxing,
with all the gear on the bike. But at least I didn't have to backtrack again. Some miles on I found a grassed
pool, and took a break washing the worst of the mud off my shoes. Not too bad after that and I called Diane to say I
was going on to Bogalusa, across the state line and into Louisiana, which I reached about 15:00. She really does exist,
and picked me up shortly thereafter. I am now sitting in the RV and will not have corned beef for dinner tonight.
9th March 2011. Day 17. 45 miles.
The rain stopped about 20:00 last night and it was pleasant, waking from time to time listening to the strong wind in the
treetops. They provided great protection and only the occasional gust disturbed the tent. The squall line arrived
about 07:30 and was as impressive as they forecast. Thunder and lightning all around with torrential rain, from which
I was able to refill my water bottles. The area had numerous tornados and floods while, oddly I sat in my tent, warm
and dry, and watched the progress of the rain bands on my iPad. By 11:40 the rain had cleared and I was underway.
My knee was a worry for a few miles but then settled down, not entirely but it was acceptable. The wind was still SE
so I made good time. The intention was to meet up with Diane and the fifth wheel RV, and we arranged by phone that I
would find a place to pull off and then wait there for her. I did at 17:45, and waited there. In any event it
was getting too dark to continue safely. Of course there was no bloody cellular service in the wilds of Mississippi
and I waited, standing by the side of the road inspecting each passing vehicle. About 20:30 a car stopped and let me
use their cell phone (which worked - obviously not Verizon) and I was able to talk to Diane who had given up finding
me and was in camp. I was happy that nothing had happened to her, and I was happy to make camp again. Not so happy
when the chap in the car announced that the small hill was called "Rattlesnake Hill". The wind had swung to
the NW and was cold. I was out of water and vey thirsty and this gentleman gave me his Coke which I demolished in seconds,
and took my water bottles home and refilled them for me. I was most grateful for the country hospitality. I made
camp in a rising wind, and was instantly asleep.
8th March 2011. Day 16. 64 miles.
I debated staying in the motel for a couple of days to let the weather front go through but in the end was away at 06:50.
The wind was mostly from behind, and rose during the day. I was aiming for Vancleave but there was nothing there and
I ploughed on, making good time, as the wind was SE and I was going either N or W. There were increasing sprinkles of
rain, so I ended up camping at 14:15 (nothing else in cooee) up a side road and deep in a pine forest. Dinner was a
cold can of corned beef and some mangos. It is now raining steadily with thunder and lightning at 18:00. So far
I seem to be quite snug, however. My left knee is starting to complain loudly, but variably and we'll see how it is
in the morning. The front is not due till later in the day so I may be stuck here for a while, inside my tiny tent in
a large dark forest, somewhere (now) in Mississippi.
7th March 2011. Day 15. 43 miles.
Cold, with the moderate N wind still at 07:00. I had to deal with the Intracoastal bridge first up and my knees complained.
I pushed it a bit, not sure how long it would take to get to the Mobile Bay ferry terminal, but as it turned out I was more
than an hour early for the 10:15 one. I had my waterproof on against the cold (I could not feel my hands) and sweated
underneath. This meant I sat around waiting, and freezing. I actually began to shiver. It is a 4.5 mile
ferry ride, and I was happy to be underway again to warm up: the jacket came off quickly. Then the mother of all BBBs
(bloody big bridges) to get back to the mainland. I kept going through to Bayou La Batre where I stopped for ice cream
(breakfast!) and coffee. I was still trying to figure out where to stop for the night when on the way out of the town
there was a motel. With sore knees, 43 miles down, and starting to wilt, I chickened out and called it a short day.
I didn't count the ferry miles.
6th March 2011. Day 14. 51 miles.
It was very cold and overcast with a biting NNW wind when I set off at 07:10. The going with the W component to the
wind was better than expected, but it was sufficiently cold that I didn't dare stop. Finally at 28 miles a Burger King
beckoned and a croissandwich and coffee and warmth were welcome. After another gut wrenching slog up and over another high
bridge the going became pleasant. I had put my waterproof jacket on and marveled at how built up the beaches near the
state line had become as I rolled along the flat beach front, albeit with considerable cross wind. And then I crossed
into Alabama. The State Park I had planned to stop at was full, with a waiting list, so the detour through it was wasted.
I finally found a motel, a little N of track, and up and over another high bridge into the wind, at 14:10. The bridge
crossed the Intracoastal, and I realized I had gone under it in 1974 when helping bring a big old power boat up from St Pete
to New Orleans. I pulled up in better shape than I have previously, so the rest days had the desired effect. The number of broken fan belts by the side of the roads is remarkable, and each
one has to be carefully examined to make sure it is not a snake. Finally, perhaps four days back, one of them turned
out to be a five foot grass snake which slithered disdainfully, and slowly, out of my road. It somehow made all that careful
examination worthwhile.
5th March 2011. Day 13. 0 miles.
The forecast was right and it rained on and off all day with a severe front late in the day. I was glad not to be out
there especially if I'd had to camp. I pumped up the tyres on the bike and lubricated the chain. I hope to
be off in the morning.
4th March 2011. Day 12. 0 miles.
Rest day. Spent the day reading and going for a walk. I then had dinner with Travis in the evening.
3rd March 2011. Day 11. 52 miles. Each day the
first 20 or so miles come easily. The next 10, after a break, are a bit harder, but then the next 20 are a trial. I'd
like to think I'm getting fitter, and in the mornings at least I can go at hills in a higher gear than later in the day, but
it is still hard work. But at least 50 miles now looks like the new 40. The wind was ESE to SE and gusting over
25 kts. It was great with it abaft the beam but for some sections it was a strong cross wind with a head component,
and with trucks zooming by conditions were trying. The early portion on back roads was great. At my first stop,
Gerald drove up and offered advice from his cross country trip in 2006. Interesting bloke. At the Milton Waffle
House after enquiring where to sit, and then doing so, the waitress came up, paused, and then floored me by saying "So
we're on walkabout are we?". She was an ex-truck driver and had more advice about the trip West. I made it
to the motel in Pensacola by 14:30 after a 07:10 getaway. Travis took me shopping (I found normal car speed unnerving
after the sedate pace of the bicycle) and then we had dinner. My body was joyful to be fed steak.
The forecast for tomorrow is poor, and after 11 days straight I will take the day off and have dinner with my son again. The forecast for the next day is even worse, so there may be a two day hiatus before I resume. 2nd March 2011. Day 10. 58 miles. More or less
a repeat of yesterday, with the rolling hills for the first half or so and then much flatter thereafter. Away at 07:00
in mild sunny conditions with a light NE breeze. No breakfast, and I didn't want to stop at any of the places that I
saw so just kept going. I am becoming adept at stopping under a tree and dozing for 15 minutes though. The last
10 miles hurt a bit (I'm not sure I'm getting any fitter - just lighter) and I was happy to see the motel in Crestview at
14:15. The Waffle House is within walking distance! I have been paralleling the CSX railway line for a week and
three or four times a day I get to say "Train!" as I hear them blowing the horn. That's 465 miles down, thousands
to go.
1st March 2011. Day 9. 51 miles. With the time
change I was able to be away at 07:20 in cool to cold overcast conditions with 15 kts of NNE wind. After Sneads it was
the same sort of up and down work for the first 30 miles. Knowing I needed 50, I took things a little easier, stopping for
a rest at 17, and then supplementing my morning tin of sausages with an egg McMuffin in Marianna. This after a sign
that pointed to Two Egg. I nearly rode there to see. The sun came out, it warmed up, and at 30 odd miles I took
a half hour under a tree by the side of the road. I even dozed with my hat over my head. The remaining 20 miles
were mercifully flat, but, as ever, my sore arse was the limiting factor and by 14:20 I'd reached the planned "economy"
motel in Bonifay. I should run off the first of the seven maps tomorrow. A milestone. Unfortunately, however,
this is a short map - they get longer later as the need for detailed navigation instructions diminishes.
28th February 2011. Day 8. 40 miles. I've about
had it with "Florida's gently rolling hills". I have them categorized as "oh shit" and "oh
fuck". You pedal just as hard as you can, in the lowest gear, pushing down on each rotation and breathing as quickly
as you can, and then just when you reach total exhaustion (really) you get to coast down the other side, giving up all the
altitude you just spent so much to gain. I fear the real mountains to come. I started the day at 08:20 and 96
feet, got up to 369 feet on one occasion and finished at 14:00 and 91 feet. The wind came up about 10:30 from the SSW
at 15-20 kts or so. For some sections today it was all right but the last stretch into Sneads was straight West into
20 kts and with 40 miles under my belt and a motel nearby I packed it in. There is forecast to be weather tonight so
camping out might not have been much fun. Dinner last night was Lindy's Fried Chicken, and I'm glad no one was there
to see the way I ate it. I must have needed the calories as I attacked it ferociously sucking at the fat and licking
the bones. I crossed into the Central time zone today.
27th February 2011. Day 7. 52 miles. The early
morning ride at 08:10 was wonderful, in dense fog with just the sound of the birds and the condensing droplets falling from
the trees to the road. Traffic was light and very courteous - perhaps they were all on their way to church. I
stopped for a rest after 21 miles and then turned West into Tallahassee. The bloody bike path, to which I had been looking
forward was all torn up for resurfacing. There was a narrow strip left paved, so I set off along it. After half
a mile that too disappeared, and trapped between the black plastic sheeting they set up "to protect the environment"
I was reduced to pushing the bike through moderate sand. After another half mile of that, in now quite warm conditions,
I dismantled a section of the plastic and bashed through the 10 yards of bush to the road alongside. Yes, I did recondition
their sheeting, but my thoughts were dark. Another two miles on, the path was OK and I returned to it. The drivers
of Tallahassee were the worst encountered so far. Once through town I found a motel at Midway and was in my room by
14:30.
26th February 2011. Day 6. 41 miles. Scrambled
eggs for breakfast. Some things are important. At 08:20 I backtracked up SR53 to Madison and then followed the
given route. The narrative on the map refers to "gently rolling hills" but they had me down to the lowest
gear and pedaling furiously. My recovery time is, I think, improving a little though and each hill destroys me about
the same. Things don't get progressively worse. I didn't feel the need for a rest stop until about the 22 mile
mark and I take that as a good sign. There was minimal wind and a low overcast that did not burn off till 10:30. I
detoured down US19 and was in the motel at I10 by 14:00. Tired, but not overly so. And now to a delicate subject.
The last two days my upper thighs have been chafing badly, and were becoming the limiting factor. Investigation
showed that my underpants had a thickish seam in that position. So today I rode with no underpants and it was very much
better. My bum is still very sore but the damage has been halted. Hopefully tomorrow I can make Tallahassee.
25th February 2011. Day 5. 41 miles.
Got away at 08:45 and immediately was faced with a 20kt head wind. All the satisfaction of yesterday's tailwind erased.
The day was just bloody hard yakka. There being no accommodation on the marked route I turned off to the intersection
of SR53 and I10. I should have known what was in store. The GPS just said "Road" on the only feasible
way of getting there, and that was being generous. Have you tried to ride your bike in sand? I didn't so much
fall off as come to a slithering halt sideways, from which I could step off. That doesn't count. I ended up walking
about a mile: there was no way of getting up enough speed to remount given the surface. And riding in the lowest gear
in the sand where possible was exhausting. It was animal surprise day. The strange smell for most of it was hogs,
the beast gazing at me with perturbation as I struggled with the sand was a bison. It soon bolted with it's calf, and
then near the end a bloody emu eyed me coldly from the side of the road. Anyway, after a harder day than anticipated I was
in the motel by 15:00. Happiness is having a Waffle House next door. The front is imminent and I can hope for
a stern component to the wind tomorrow.
24th February 2011. Day 4. 48 Miles.
I was away about 08:40 in cool and overcast conditions. Happiness is orange juice, scrambled eggs and coffee in your
stomach. It was a little warm in the middle of the day but otherwise perfect with plenty of tree shaded minor roads
and a light following breeze. Starting off in my untrained state from Florida seems to be paying off with great weather
so far and flat or gently rolling terrain. Things seemed a little easier than yesterday though I'm getting some muscle
soreness in my legs - well earned and not at all bad. Found a motel a bit better than the last two just off the track
and was dozing by 14:40. The only food nearby is Mc-bloody-Donalds so there may be a culture clash about to take place
over how to make a hamburger. That's about 180 miles down with only another 4000 or so to go. Just keep pedaling,
just keep pedaling ...
23rd February 2011 Day 3. 50 miles.
I didn't intend to go so far but that's the way it worked out. Horrible dry barbeque chicken last night and nowhere
to get breakfast this morning so I did the day on a tin of sausages. Wonderful cycling on the bike path first up.
Cool, cloudy, with a perfect track and a following breeze. Then the streets of Gainesville and on to the pretty country
to the NW. It was too soon to stop in Gainesville so I ended up ploughing on to High Springs. I went through all
my water and was verging on "distressed" for the last few miles. I knew the third full day (and tomorrow,
the fourth) would be rough, and today was. Not hard going but just difficult at first to start to get the body in shape.
My bum hurts. I'm in another awful motel but very glad to lie on the bed and sleep for an hour on arrival. And
now if I can just find some food ...
22nd February 2011. Day 2. 39 miles. A
very bad surprise to have to go up and over the St John's river bridge immediately upon starting at 09:00. I was totally
stuffed by the top as the head wind blew harder nearing the "summit". Once clear of Palatka it was quite pleasant
although there was a lot of heavy truck traffic and no shoulder to the road at all. A bit scary. The Dutch couple
caught up and passed again, as did Pat, a lone US peddler. Even though he has had both knees replaced, he kept up a
conversation as we went up a steep hill. I responded with "Ahhh.. Ohhh... Ugh..". He powered
away after that. I got into some minor rolling hills for a while and this tested the old body a bit. I now know
what the very lowest gear is for. I was very glad to get to a motel and rest by 15:00. It was a fair test for
the second full day. I did not fall off my bicycle today.
21st February 2011. Day 1. 35 miles. Today I did not
fall off my bicycle. Under way just before 08:00. The big surprise was how much the panniers weigh and their effect on the
handling of the bike. I got used to it but will have to lighten the load some. One hour then a stop for 30 minutes and so
on. Headwinds made it hard for a first day and with 35 miles down and my legs starting to complain I decided to stop there
when a motel presented itself at 13:30. A Dutch couple powered past - they had come up from Miami heading for Los Angeles.
It was pleasant early and I had delusions about how far I might get, but then the wind and reality struck. The bruises and
scrapes from yesterday did not interfere with riding at all.
20th February 2011. Day 0. 10 miles.
Dipped my rear wheel in the Atlantic about 17:25 and, somewhat later than expected, set out. Managed 7 miles before
a passing car forced me off the road, and in trying to get back on the road, I fell off. I believe that this is the
first time in my life I have fallen off a bicycle. I landed on my left hip, elbow and hand and maintained my good record
of falling well. I have a bruised hip, a skinned and bloody elbow, and that's it. I pedalled the remaining 3 miles
or so to I95 where Diane picked my up at 18:15 and we retired to the motel and had dinner. As they said on Apollo 13
- "that's our glitch for this trip". Getting through St. Augustine was tricky. The footpaths were full
and the traffic chaotic so it took a while and some concentration. But apart from that, it was a pleasant and easy ride,
enlivened by falling off.
17th February 2011 Departure has been deferred
to Sunday. Too much to do and too little time to do it. Especially when jet-lagged.
13th February 2011 All right - now
it's going to be bicycling. I'm back from Australia and jet lagged as hell and am now trying to get ready to go up to
St. Augustine to start pedalling Westwards. My track can be followed on Spot, as before for Popeye, using the link to
"Bicycle Track". I know this is a bit insane, but you at least have to give it a try. |
