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Halcyon

4th May 2015.  We departed Tarpon Springs at 0650 for the 55 odd mile run down to Palmetto.  We went outside at Clearwater and had a shitty little trip in building easterly seas until finally getting protection as we approached the Marlow Marine facility at Snead Island around 1445.  Halcyon is now there, and up for sale.  She had been cleaned, all our gear is off, the transmissions rebuilt, and everything generally made pretty.  A final oil analysis revealed nothing untoward with the engines.  We are very grateful to her for looking after us so well, and ambivalent about selling her.

The Great Loop took 8 months and 8 days and we covered 5616 statute miles.  I need to count up the locks but it was around 150. 

OK - so what's next?    

16th November 2014.  During the 12 to 4 watch, things worsened if anything, but it was about what we had expected, and accepted.  Pitch black as the cloud developed, and not much fun with no horizon to watch, and being lurched around by the waves.  Halcyon did well, never rolling much more than about 20 degrees and we maintained 7 knots all the way under autopilot.  The coffee pot was launched, and is now an ex-coffee pot.  Walker did not enjoy it.  Neither did we.  When I took over at 0700 things had moderated a little and continued to do so all morning as we neared land.  We crossed our wake at 1208 at the entrance to the Anclote River and were tied up in our old slip by 1300.  Seems like we never left.  Very little sleep for either of us overnight so we took an afternoon nap and slept on board this night.  Mixed feelings about the adventure being over.

15th November 2014.  The wind went East at 10 - 15 kts but the anchorage was still just fine.  After looking at the available data we elected to depart the anchorage right on 1600 for the crossing to Tarpon Springs.  There were three other boats that had left ahead of us and we had them on radar most of the night.  The wind rose to about 20 knots East by midnight and the waves had risen to maybe 4 feet, but in two wave trains, which made for the washing machine effect.  Quite uncomfortable. 

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We are Going to Miss This

14th November 2014.  At anchor, Carrabelle Beach.   

13th November 2014.  About last night.  We sat lightly aground, facing back the way we had come from in a light NW wind.  Then the tide came in up the river and into the lake and reversed the chain and pushed us into the shallows back the other way.  The chain held us by the bow, while the stern swung off one bank, onto the other and we sat aground, side on to the 1 - 1.5 knot tidal flow as it gurgled around the bow, and especially the stern, and heeled us very slightly to port.  As the tide rose, so we were pushed on more.  The strength of the tide took me by surprise.  By mornng, however, the current had gone and we were afloat, just.  We left at 0800 to use the tide to lift us off the mud.  Just floating, and after a somewhat messy anchor retrieval (to avoid going aground again), we motored out into the channel and South on the Apalachicola River to Apalachicola.  South on the sound, and then East behind the islands to Carrabelle Beach where we anchored in 8 feet.  An open anchorage, but there is NNW forecast for which it should be good.  Anchor down around 1230 after an average of just under a knot of favourable current.  Waiting for weather now. 

12th November 2014.  Backed out down the dock at 0750 after a nice night and good dinner out.  Very light wind, and we motored through West Lake, then East Lake, and into the long cut.  At 1450 revs most of the day.  Cool/warm/cool/cold after the sun got low.  We pulled off the channel at the South end of Lake Wimico.  Meant to be 8 feet, but after letting the wind back us down, I fear we are sitting with our keel on the bottom.  The tide has a foot to come up, so hopefully we can power off in the morning.  Adverse half knot current most of the day.

11th November 2014.  The land breeze kicked in overnight but conditions remained very comfortable.  0735 getaway from excellent holding in sand.  Passed the two sport fishermen towing, and then into the cut.  We gained, on average, about a knot of favourable current up until the end of the cut and West Bay.  Into the St. Andrews Marina by 1420 for a very early arrival.   Wind light - NE going NW and partly cloudy.  Cool early - warm later.  A longish day again, but pleasant.  A mixture of hand steering and autopilot. 

10th November 2014.  0810 departure and motored down the bay and a left turn (again) down the GIWW (again).  Heading East.  Used the autopilot most of the way and anchored in 20 feet in Baklava Bay.  Longish day.  Light winds SW and warmish at 71 degrees.  The Narrows was not particularly narrow, but did require concentration to honour the buoys.  Anchor down at 1515.

7th - 9th November 2014.  At Palafox Marina.  Water filled.

6th November 2014.  Raised a muddy (clay) anchor at 0930 and went slowly East on the GIWW.  Nice to be able to use the autopilot on the open sections.  Calm, cloudy conditions.  Turned up Pensacola Bay and were alongside at Palafox Marina about 1300.  Very smooth into the slip.  The front came through shortly after docking and there is now a small craft advisory.  All snugged up.    

5th November 2014.  At anchor, Wolf Bay.  Calm day.

4th November 2014.  An easy getaway at 0900 and motored out slowly.  The depth was one foot higher than on our arrival (both low water neaps) so the seitch effect must have been still there, then.  Down the ship channel, through the pass in the spoil bank and a long motor down Mobile Bay to the GIWW.  Turn left into it, under the bridge I rode over on my bike ride, past Lulu's and the marinas and felt our way into the NE branch of Wolf Bay to anchor in 7 feet in excellent holding about 1500.  Happy to be out at anchor.  Cool (about 70 degrees) with a light to moderate S to SE breeze.  Pleasant conditions - partly sunny.  Dolphins again, both underway and at anchor.

3rd November 2014.  At Dog River Marina.  Water filled.

2nd November 2014.  After not coming off DST we were underway in cold, clear conditions at 0800 (old time).  We just got out of the river before a tow, and were the last of a group of three moving down.  A little sad for the last day in the river system.  It quickly changed to swamp, and then the port, and then there was nothing on the horizon, which pleased me.  Down the ship channel, and then we turned off into the one for Dog River Marina.  Very shallow (seitch still?) with 3.3 feet (under the transducer) showing for a while and I think we may have ploughed a furrow.  Docked about 1500 (old time) and took on 241 gallons of fuel and pumped out and went to our slip. 

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They are Headng South, and so are We

31st October - 1st November 2014.  Stayed at anchor in the Tensas River at N31 04 since our insurance does not allow us South of N31 until the 2nd.  A reinforcing front went through and then a cold and brisk stream.  Close to freezing on the second night.  The water dropped 18 inches, I presume due to the seitch effect in Mobile Bay.  A pleasant stopover in a great anchorage.  Stuffing box snugged down. 

30th October 2014.  A nice crisp sunny morning with the mist rising off the river.  Six tows overnight.  Underway at 0830 and anchor down in the Tensas River by 1330.  Moderate North wind and quite pleasant in sunshine.  Anchored in 12 feet on the South side of the bend.  Good holding.  Wind due, so we veered out 120 feet of chain.

29th October 2014.  Nice night.  A little fog and low cloud in the morning.  The lock (Coffeeville - and the last!) called back for engine start about 0820.  Straight in for the final 30 foot drop and it went all right.  I was scared I would screw up the last one.  Low cloud which broke up later and we motored on at 1500 down, what the lockmaster had called, "a pretty low river".  Overtook one tow.  The port stuffing box is now dripping nicely at 4 -5 seconds, after one hour, and one hour before anchor down at 1330.  I won't touch it.  Turned off the channel behind the green mark at Upper Sunflower Cutoff to anchor in 7 feet - lowish tide, which we now have to take into account again.  The current keeps us straight and out of the channel.  Mr. David, the tow we passed, came by and then the front.  More weather than I expected - rain, wind (15 - 20) and a Cb.  Some snags just outside the small arc we swing in.  Anchor chain remarked at 60 and 90 feet with ties.  The paint has worn off.  Sea level and tides - oh my!   

28th October 2014.  Very quiet all night - no tows - but heavy fog in the morning.  Underway after it lifted at 0915.  Motored at 1300 down the 30 sm to Bobbie's Fish Camp.  Alongside at 1320.  Light SW wind - sunny and warm.  Port stuffing box still only dripping occasionaly.  Nuts backed off, collar WD40'd and pounded back 1/8th inch. 

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Leaving the Demopolis Lock

27th October 2014.  Departed at 0655 with four others and locked straight through the 40' Demopolis Lock.  Motored on through some moderate fog which quickly cleared.  A long day, motoring at 1500 in sunny conditions as it reached 86 or so with a light to moderate S - SW wind.  Anchored in 6 feet at mile 149 at 1530.  A long 8.5 hour day for 68 miles.  The port stuffing box stopped dripping - seemed I overtightened.  I reduced revs and once anchored loosened it.  I am sure it will spew now.  No sign of the odd noise.  It may have been something on the prop.  Asked a northbound tow to mention our presence.  Cockpit light rigged.  Tanks dipped at 2/3 so we are all right to Mobile, and then some.  This anchorage is meant to be 15 feet and is 6 feet, so I am in some doubt about those to come.  We'll see - probably learn the hard way.  

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Halcyon at Demopolis

21st - 26th October 2014.  At the Kingfisher Marina, Demopolis.  Water filled, holding tank pumped and stuffing boxes tightened.  At 1500 revs there was no sign of the noise from the stbd bearing yesterday.  Hopefully it was a resonance effect at that particular setting.

20th October 2014.  After talking to the Heflin Lock and waiting for the fog to lift, we motored out, cutting our own furrow in the entrance (3.4 feet on the depth sounder) behind the three that had departed earlier.  It turned out to be a lovely anchorage, provided the wind didn't blow.  It was dead calm all night.  Four miles down, the lock opened like magic and we descended another 34 feet.  The most efficient.  Then a long, if somewhat mundane motor, from 0830 to 1500 down the 53 sm to Kingfisher Bay Marina, the entrance to which is not that apparent.  In the slip and happy to be so.  At 1500 revs there was no sign of the noise from the st'd bearing.  Hopefully it was a resonance effect at that particular setting.

19th October 2014.  Waited until 0950 to get underway, and met three upbound tows in quick succession.  About 0.8 knots of current and made 6.7 - 6.8 SOG.  Anchor down (but not really set) at Sumpter Recreation Area.  Very soft mud, and the anchor pulled through so we are just letting it sit, and hopefully sink.  No current, no wind, so it is a fair option.  Some new noise from the st'd intermediate bearing at the chosen power setting.  Noticeable.  We'll see what tomorrow, and another setting does.  At anchor at 1210 after several attempts. 

18th October 2014.  We had to wait for an upbound tow in the lock and didn't start engines until 1020.  The lock was a bit slow.  We then motored down the 21 sm to Windham Landing Cut to anchor in 9 feet.  It was really nice to have no bar, and good holding, and good (well, fair) swinging room.  The half knot current kept us straight.  Weather 75 degrees, with 10 kts of N wind as a weak cold front went through overnight.  Motored at 1250 with 1.5 - 2 knots of current.  A pleasant day.  Tanks dipped at three quarters.  Both aft zincs still OK.  Excellent anchorage.  

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Coming Up to Pass a Typical Tow

17th October 2014.  After calling the lock, cast off at 0915 and went straight through.  Motored down to Pickensville and tried to anchor on the LDB.  Could not get the CQR to hold on four or five attempts (including running aground) so in the end motored back a mile to the Bigbee Valley Access area but managed to go aground, center channel, on the bar.  After this second grounding, we motored down to anchor in what turned out to be a tight area just before the Tom Bevill Lock.  While looking for a spot, we went aground, again, and finally settled just off the channel, between the end of the weir and the stump boat.  At least the anchor seems to be holding, though I didn't test it too much.  Finally set at 1400 in 8 feet.

16th October 2014.  At Columbus Marina.  Water filled.

15th October 2014.  It was quite dark when we anchored last night.  I cleared a small branch off the anchor chain at 0400 but apart from the odd bump and scrape during the night it was quite a good evening.  By morning the current was down to about 1.5 kts and less debris, though one huge tree trunk came through.  Anchor up at 1050.  At last night's engine check I found the port engine's fan belt on its way.  In the morning I changed it out for the spare but I had to remove and replace the alternator to do it.  Getting the hook up was OK but on exit we got down to 3.6 feet.  An easy 8 miles, with 1.5 - 2 knots of current, down to Columbus Marina.  Entry was fine, though untidy docking, and we'll stay a couple of nights.  Restful to be tied up.

14th October 2014.  A typical post-frontal day.  SW wind to 20 kts and Cu and showers in the stream.  Walker has a gut issue, at both ends, so off to the vet.  Diagnosis is he ate mushrooms or some such.  Departed in the main channel at 1130.  Cold with diminishing showers.  Three locks, and then tried to anchor just before Aberdeen Lock.  Ran aground at the entrance to Aberdeen Marina both trying the center, and then a shade downstream.  Tried the other side for Blue Bluff and ran aground again, center channel.  Backed off without trouble.  Much debris and a 3 kt plus current after the Tombigbee Cutoff entered.  Went through the lock and pushed daylight to anchor in Barton Ferry Cutoff in 14 feet with 3 kts of current and a lot of debris.  A long, cold, difficult day.  Wind down, but the debris and anchor security are an issue.

13th October 2014.  Stayed at Midway Marina.  A severe front came through with rain and storms.  The night of arrival a weather "blob" dumped a LOT of rain.  Water filled.

12th October 2014.  Nice anchorage if a shade deep.  It cleared overnight but about 0800 it clouded over and fog came in.  It lifted a bit but when I called the lock at 0915 they still had a tow in the chamber waiting for it to clear.  The lock called and we were underway about 0940.  Straight through.  The 84 foot drop was impressive.  The next lock was closed and we had to wait 20 or 30 minutes while he locked through the power boat that had gone ahead.  Motoring down the Tenn-Tom - a heavy rain squall came through reducing visibility for a time.  Very squally and classic low pressure system.  It cleared for the third lock (which was open for us) and we then went on to Midway Marina.  A little shallow on the entrance.  Tied up by 1345.  Heavy, heavy rain overnight.

11th October 2014.  Rain set in about 2230 and continued all night.  Motored out about 0855 in light rain, and turned the corner off the Tennessee into the Tenn-Tom Waterway at mile 450.  Through the cut for 25 statute miles.  It was very pretty and well constructed.  A real surprise.  The rain let up but it was still very cloudy and very low pressure looking.  Turned off Bay Springs Lake into Cotton Bay, just short of the Whitten Lock and anchored in about 30 feet.  It took a while to hook, but I wanted the swinging room.  The trip line bouys are just below the water.  Anchor down at 1450 for a six hour day.

10th October 2014.  Moved over to the fuel dock and pumped out before getting underway at 0920.  Motored back down the Tennessee River.  Storms went through about 1030 and then things slowly improved.  SW at 10 - 12 kts.  Partly cloudy after the line went through.  One small tow eastbound.  Decided, due to the wind direction, to anchor five miles short of Zippy in Indian Creek.  Good holding in 12 feet with heaps of swinging room, unlike Zippy.  Makes for 43 sm tomorrow, but a good trade off I think.

7th - 9th October 2014.  At Florence Marina.  Water filled.  Hose clamp and rubber gasket material used to secure the bleed screw, just in case the epoxy fails. 

6th October 2014.  A rude awakening as a line of storms came through about 0640.  The worst went round to the North but, still, thunder and wall to wall lightning roused us early.  I found the st'd aft fuel filter bleed screw stripped when I went to tighten it last night.  For a change, not my doing.  The screw had leaked diesel since the oil change, and the mechanic had tightened it down then.  I reseated it using epoxy putty (no oil change till we return - I hope) after turning off the fuel, and hope it holds.  Mike, at Florence, said he could fit us in when I called at 0830 so we headed there a day early due to the Cb forecast.  Motored at 6.5 - 6.7 kts the 42 sm up the Tennessee River to Florence Marina.  Late storms after we arrived.  The epoxy seems to be holding all right - so far.  Tied up by 1430 in the marina.  Nice to be off the river and alongside for the forecast storms.  Some slid by around dinner time. 

5th October 2014.  A slow start at 0930.  The current came up to about 2 kts late in the day, and then back to 0.5 kts this morning.  I assume this is due to power generation needs at Pickwick.  Cold morning again with a moderate S - SW wind.  Ambled along until asked to speed up by the Pickwick lockmaster when we intercepted their call to the cat that had anchored behind us last night and left earlier.  Straight in to the land side chamber and up 50 plus feet into Pickwick Lake.  Turned to st'd at mile 215 and anchor down in Zippy Cove by 1315.  Not too much swinging room if the wind comes up.  The weather for the next couple of days seems to be all Cb so we will play it by ear.  Hook set well in 22 feet.

4th October 2014.  A cold night, 40 degrees.  Left at 0900, the last to do so, and motored out just as the wind started to get up for the day.  Motored at 1350 and 6 kts as the wind rose.  when we turned NW in the river the apparent wind was 30 plus kts and bloody cold.  Anchor down (it set eventually after a long drag) behind Wolf Island just before 1400 in 16 feet.  Still a strong wind and 1.5 kts of current, fortunately in the same direction.  120 feet of chain plus bridle.  Frost forecast for tonight with diminishing wind.  The port shut off solenoid has worked the last two times after some fiddling.

3rd October 2014.  Stayed at Clifton Marina due to uncertainty in the forecast and having the time.  Water filled.

2nd October 2014.  The anchor was well set in mud despite it having dragged for 100 yds when I backed it down.  Odd.  Anchor up at 0800 and an idle exit out into the river by 0815.  Ran at 1400 and 6.3 SOG most of the day.  Light S wind rose and cloud increased.  Passed one tow just before Clifton.  Now definitely out of the lake and into the river.  The cloud increased and we entered the Clifton Marina in moderate rain.  Many Loopers here - packed, and we had to take the fuel dock.  Glad to be in a marina with a vigourous cold front due overnight - with associated Cb.  We'll see.  Boat closed up and AC on.

1st October 2014.  Away at 0945 for the 21 sm run to Cuba Landing.  Cool to start, but definitely warm thereafter at 86 degrees.  Just ambling down at 6.3 kts to turn off past the marina into a very shallow anchorage at 5.5 - 6.0 feet.  The port angine had to be manually shut down, the solenoid not working from either helm station.  A fisherman gave us three bass while at anchor and I had to remember how to scale and fillet a fish after 30 plus years.  Went all right though.  Light S - SW wind but I set the anchor for SE which is what they reckon overnight.

30th September 2014.  At Pebble Isle Marina.  Oil, oil filters and secondary fuel filters changed.

29th September 2014.  Another great anchorage, great night and great stars.  Excellent holding.  Up and away at 1100 to arrive at Pebble Isle to refuel and pump out at 1230.  In the slip by 1315.  Took on 109 gallons which seems about right.  Both main engine impellers changed out.  Port engine 753.5.

28th September 2014.  The anchor came up with a little for'd throttle.  It was not snagged, but deeply embedded in very heavy clay mud.  The grab yesterday was the most dramatic I have seen for a clay bottom.  Underway at 0920 and easy going in 82 degrees and light winds.  Anchored in Richland Bay in 11 feet apparently good holding.  I did not back down as hard as yesterday.  Pretty scenery with the leaves just starting to turn.  Hook down at 1320. 

27th September 2014.  Another 1000 getaway.  An easy motor using Penelope (autopilot) South to Panther/Dry Fork Bay at mile 60.  Hook down in 12' by 1400.  She dragged, then snagged hard - really hard - so we may have a problem getting her up in the morning.  Warm to hot - 86 degrees with a light SE breeze.  Some Cu building over the land.

26th September 2014.  A lazy start at 1000 in warm to hot conditions.  Very light NE wind.  Pewoo took her out and into the channel through to Kentucky Lake.  We motored down to Ewes Bay off Higgins Bay and were anchor down in 15' in a very nice spot.  We have a trip line rigged to the anchor.  A pleasant day.

24th - 25th September 2014.  Stayed at Green Turtle Bay Marina, Grand Rivers.  Water filled.  Reprovisioned.

23rd September 2014.  There were two young deer feeding on the shore of the island this morning, with steam rising off the river.  Again, a very peaceful night with great stars.  Away at 0820, and once out of the anchorage, turned right off the Ohio and into the Cumberland.  Very straightforward, though the adverse current varied between 0.5 and 1.5 knots.  Cool early, and briefly warm later.  1315 at the Barkely Lock and straight in and through for the 57 foot lift.  Most efficient.  Motored round to Green Turtle Bay Marina, pumped out, went to the "T" at the end of 5 dock and did the administration.  Tied up by 1415.  And a great dinner says Diane - on board - her cooking.  Of course.   

22nd September 2014.  Quiet night.  Excellent stars.  Some white noise from the construction site all night.  About to pull the hook at 0755 but contacted Olmsted Lock who asked us to wait for a downbound tow to get through.  Underway at 0815.  The wickets were down at lock 53 and the lock itself all but submerged.  We made 5 knots through the no wake zone and 6.3 or so thereafter.  A very pleasant morning - sunny and cool.  We arrived at lock 52 at 1200, in the chamber by 1217, but then sat for 30 minutes before they started to flood it.  Not sure what the story was.  Off again and past the busy junction with the Tennessee River.  On another 17 miles or so to Cumberland Towhead to anchor in 16 feet behind the island.  Another really nice and secure anchorage at 1500.  The fleeting areas have been busy.  Nice day.  When the lock gates on 52 closed behind us with a thud and a bang, a duck fell out from where it was perched, into the water.  He sat there, looking around, quite embarassed and keen to make sure no one had seen.  The duck body language, combining both outrage and embarassment was priceless.

21st September 2014.  Very quiet anchorage lying N/S along the diversion in a knot or so of current.  Seven boats came in behind us yesterday.  A front came through very mildly about 0600.  A sprinkle of rain was all, but enough to have me on deck closing everything up.  Hook up at 0755 and motored out again to take on the Mighty Muddy Mississippi.  We ran at 1350 again, but had between 4.5 and 6 knots of current today.  After the meanders, we made the Ohio River about noon and turned to port, going from 12 to 6 knots in a moment.  Motored up the much cleaner Ohio and through the fleeting areas to finally anchor in 25 feet behind the cribs below Olmsted Lock (under construction, and major construction it is) at 1415.  A little tight, with the scraping chain indicatng rock, although she set well.  Minimal bridle rigged to reduce the noise transmission.  Stuffing boxes tightened down.

20th September 2014.  A lovely spot to stop.  Quiet, and again with trains, though not right alongside.  We unhitched from the wall at 0800 and motored out of the quiet into the rush of the Mississippi.  We held 4.5 knots of current again, at 1350 revs most of the day.  Dodging the many northbound tows, and an enormous amount of southbound debris, made for a long and wearing day.  We turned off into Little Diversion Channel and were anchor down in 30 feet by 1400.  Quite tight, and deeper than the 10 feet documented, which shows the level of the river.  A warm day, but with a cool moderate SW wind off the river.  Some misplaced bouys, and two submarines.  I slept for an hour on arrival.

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She Sure Does Flow

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One of the Swirls

19th September 2014.  The current had abated just a little, and the masses of debris we'd had to deal with floating into us yesterday had also become smaller and sparser.  Left easily enough at 0915 and motored off.  Yes, it was still a steady 4.5 knots of current out on the river, but less debris.  There were many northbound tows, so it looks like the river is open again after a tow sank yesterday in the early hours of the morning.  Again, close attention and navigation was required.  Mile 130 did have turbulence and a tow.  Later there were many tows and a fleeting area.  Turned up into Kaskaskia River and alongside the lock wall at 1250.  Made 10.5 knots average at 1350 revs.  The turn off the Mississippi took 1600 revs to accomplish, and move from 4.5 knots of muddy water to 0 knots light green water.  A lovely quiet spot on the wall after a somewhat hectic Mississippi.  The weather was warmish and dry.  The Coast Guard confirmed over the phone that the river was open below here.

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An Island of Debris - There Were Many

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Another Log in the River

18th September 2014.  At Hoppie's.  Water topped off.  To my great delight there were trains going by all night.

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St Louis from the River

17th September 2014.  Cast off at 0808 and motored carefully out - careful due to the current swirls in the basin.  It turned out to be overcast, cool/cold, with one moderate rain period.  The Mel Price Lock was quick, and open for us with only a 6" drop.  The Chain of Rocks Lock had a 40 minute delay, so we were very lucky for the day and the two Upper Mississippi locks.  We moved from the Illinois to the Mississippi, past the confluence of the Missouri, through St Louis and on to Hoppie's.  Interesting docking with 4.5 knots of current and large islands of debris moving down river.  A day of concentrating on debris (trees) and navigation.  In company (loose and last) with Meander, Attitude Changer and Panacea.  Tied up by 1430. 

12th - 16th September 2014.  Stayed at Grafton Harbor.  Water filled.  The river started to go down Tuesday morning but the debris and current are still up.  Intend to leave in the morning.

8th - 11th September 2014.  At the Grafton Harbor Marina.  We intended to leave tomorrow, with a Friday reservation at Hoppies, but it rained heavily for the best part of a day over the whole area and the Illinois, Mississippi and Ohio Rivers are at flood stage and above.  Islands of debris, and large trees, are rushing by in the current and everyone is staying put for the next few days until it eases.  The marinas in the area say "no-one has any business being out on the river".  So here we sit.

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Chicago River Bridge

7th September 2014.  Excellent, quiet anchorage.  The anchor had to be broken out from heavy mud at 0830.  there was fog earlier, but it had dissipated by then.  We motored at about 7.5 knots (1400) passing a number of upbound tows and finally reached the lower Illinois where, on a Sunday, motor boats roared around.  We had to wait off Grafton Harbor Marina for half an hour or so before coming alongside to pump out, fill the fuel tanks, and go to our slip on the "T" at "H" dock.  Port engine 705.5.  We took 190 gallons.  Jim and Liz came aboard to visit in the afternoon.

6th September 2014.  NOAA said 60 knots, so there you go.  Quiet evening although the edge of another storm  dumped more rain on us about bed time, and we slept all closed up.  A cool cloudy morning and we broke the anchor out (it was well in) just after 0800.  We totally forgot about the lock 5 miles down - not that it made a difference - and ended up anchoring off to the side while a double tow locked up.  Fortunately the next up tow had been waiting before "Marge McFarlane" arrived after us, so after 1.75 hours we locked through, just floating free in the chamber (4.5 foot drop) at 1045.  The day warmed, the cloud thinned and we were at Willow Island, anchor down in excellent holding of 11 feet by 1530.  The tows were polite, and seemed easier to understand.  The humidity is low, the current was about 0.8 - 1.2 in our favour and the white pelicans were circling.  Nice day. 

5th September 2014.  The anchorage was all right, the current keeping us from veering too far.  A couple of tows and many trains went through.  Underway at 0703 and motored back into the channel as Passage locked through.  I sat in behind, piggy-backing on his AIS ability to see the tows that were ahead of us.  We have the lingo, but still cannot understand two words in a row from the tow captains.  We do know that "wussel" seems to mean "one whistle", or his port side when meeting.  A long day making 72 miles to Bar Island as the only good anchorage ahead.  Passage detoured to check depths at a dock, and we took the lead and increased speed a little.  We had expected the front by two or three, but made anchor after looping around the bouys at exactly 1500 in 7 feet and half a knot of current.  Nice anchorage.  At 1650 the front arrived in the shape of a severe squall line.  Passage was anchored behind us and lost her bimini and dinghy cover.  I say gusts to 40, maybe 45 knots.  Diane says 60, and Passage said "hurricane force".  Take your pick - but it did blow with torrential rain for 25 minutes before clearing.  We had no damage and she sat well on the hook. 

4th September 2014.  A line of storms came through about 0500 until 0800, dissipating and reforming.  Heavy rain but no wind above about 18 knots and we sat very nicely.  The three boats at Lower Henry left some time before 0700.  We motored out behind El Nido at 0910 and followed Bob down until he turned off into a marina.  The overcast went away, and when we reached the Peoria Lock at 1315 it was warm to hot.  Sat waiting for 1.5 hours but locked through the 6 feet quickly once the downbound tow was clear, and turned up below the dam.  The first go at anchoring in the recommended spot turned out to be in 25 feet on bare rock.  We backed down to 7 feet and the hook bit well, well back from the dam.  The wash off the dam changed when they closed it and opened the shoreside wicket.  We were then more centred and more aligned to the current.  We were not hook down until 1500, making it again, a longer than anticipated day.  Henry Island is bald eagle city. 

3rd September 2014.  Backed out of the slip at 0715 and motored out into what I thought was rising fog.  About an hour of slow, careful navigation till it did finally break up, only to reform at Starved Rock Lock.  We arrived at 0830 and were through by 0915, only having to wait for him to close the lower gates and fill the chamber.  The fog kept the up and down waiting barges on the cribs until it cleared as we entered the lock.  A lucky day for us.  Light winds and warming.  We overtook one tow outside the channel (he said there was plenty of water, and was right) and passed a number going the other way.  Anchored at Upper Henry Island at 1315 in 7 feet.

2nd September 2014.  At Heritage Harbor Marina.  Reprovisioned and filled the water and did the extensive laundry.

1st September 2014.  Up early and were off the wall and away at 0653.  Joliet is "train city".  We heard them all night, which I loved.  The McDonough Bridge was on 16 and not 13 but I got them after a short delay.  Next was a half hour wait at the Brandon Road Lock as they filled the chamber for us.  Overcast, humid, with a 10 - 15 knots SW going W wind.  Then the Dresden Lock where we waited an hour and a half for a split tow to get through and reattach.  This latter arrangement is very slow and you wonder about hydraulic latches instead of the labourious lacing of cable and rope.  Motored on.  The wind moderated and the sun came out making it hot when we reached Marseilles Lock at 1430.  We were warned of a two hour wait, so went alongside a COE barge to do so.  The other three boats caught up and we all went in behind the tug, the Cody Boyd and the second half of the tow about 1640.  After locking down, we had to wait for the tow to reattach and finally got out (taking care of the tug prop wash) about 1715 to be alongside at Heritage Harbor Marina in a very tight double sided slip by 1745.  It was a long and tiring day and we slept well.

31st August 2014.  Underway just before 0650 and at the Chicago Lock by 0730.  Straight through and we motored slowly through downtown Chicago.  It was very spectacular and a little surreal.  We cleared all the bridges with ease - the pool seemed a little more than a foot low.  Then it went pretty industrial quite quickly and we motored on through the parked barges, very glad it was a Sunday and there was only one we met underway.  Held up at Lockport Lock waiting for a split barge tow to lock up, and then we had to work through the obstacle course to reach the lock.  Between the crib and the stern of a tug, down between the two barges, and then two right angle turns to get clear.  We had a couple of feet each side but the double 90 degree one gave me visions of being stuck there and unable to move.  I think I passed my driver's test today.  We locked down 40 feet with only a midships tie, and then went on down to Joliet, the bridges opening like magic before us.  We were alongside downtown, tied up, with power by about 1430.  An early start but a good day.  We are now off the Lakes and on the Rivers.  

29th - 30th August 2014.  At Burnham Harbor Chicago.  The weather is windy so we are happy to be secure.  We pumped out Saturday morning, changed to slip P21, and filled the water.  There was a One Direction concert at Soldier Field both nights.  Ian and Annie signed off to return to Australia.

28th August 2014.  Left at 0910 with a lot of slop from the overnight north wind that probably went to 15 knots.  While the wind died to East at 10 - 12 knots the seas had multiple wave trains and the washing machine effect was pronounced as we rolled and lurched our way West to Chicago.  Clocks back one hour to CDT.  Arrived at Burnham Harbor about 1345 (new time) and after receiving no reply on 9/71/16 and the phone, went straight into slip P18.  A tight fit but fortunately, no drama.  Quite a shitty day and we were all glad to be in.  The chartplotter just suddenly decided to come good, but without the vector line, that I reset after arrival.  Here till Sunday.  On departure from New Buffalo we had the Sears Tower in sight as soon as we cleared the harbour.  It will always be the Sears Tower. 

27th August 2014.  In port at New Buffalo, MI.  Shopping, water filled.  A pretty place to stop.

26th August 2014.  Thunder when we woke, but it cleared nicely and all looked well when New Buffalo Marina rang back and said OK for Tuesday and Wednesday nights.  Left quickly at 1015 and once out, motored into a light S wind in cloudy conditions  at 7.3 knots, a little faster than usual.  Then a line formed to the East, and according to NOAA was moving at 40 knots with winds to 50 knots.  Around 1300 Diane said that she could see a waterspout forming, but it was just the gust front picking up spray from open flat water as it came in.  This was only the second time I have ever seen this happen.  We turned to the West and sat bow into it.  Maybe 35 - 40 knots but stronger gusts could be seen around us.  The seas built very quickly and it blew steadily for maybe 30 minutes as we idled out into the Lake.  When it moderated, we turned back on course and rolled a lot - a lot.  Slowly moderated to 15 knot North, and then went 15 knots SE.  All unforecast, and a big surprise.  Motored the last bit in, in lumpy offshore winds (multiple wave trains by this time) and were in our slip (6 inches clearance either side) about 1630.  A longer day than anticipated due to having to heave to for a while.  So that was Lake Michigan making sure we did not become complacent, after, to date, an excellent run with the weather.  The chartplotter has started removng detail at higher ranges, but the card is being accessed and there is certainly adequate information available. 

25th August 2014.  Away from what turned out to be a pretty good anchorage once the wake died down, at 0745 with a clean anchor and light to moderate East wind.  Penelope had it nearly all day.  Got a bit bouncy on the nose to 15 knots for a while.  Went SW but died away later in the day as storms slid by to the North and broke up the wind.  An attempt to retrieve Diane's shirt, which blew overboard, failed, and showed our poor MOB preparedness.  In to South Haven Municipal Marina about 1530 as light rain from storms fell.  It seemed like a long day, but the 60 sm was relatively easy.

24th August 2014.  Dropped the lines at 0815 and motored out, again without hitting anything.  10 knots of East wind.  Motored offshore in a rising SE wind and bounced a little for a while.  It was a straightforward run down the coast in deep water till turning into Muskegon and anchoring inside the North shore in 25 feet.  Good holding.  Many, many boats (and their wake) on a Sunday afternoon.

23rd August 2014.  Up anchor and away at 0806.  Motored in a light East breeze which died away as the "sea breeze" effect came in.  Cool/cold early - warm/hot later.  Turned in, pumped out and refuelled at Ludington at 1515.  Into slip A12 at Ludington Municipal Marina.  Didn't hit anything.  Just a day motoring down the East coast of the Lake in pleasant conditions.  Fuel tanks filled at port engine 631.2. 

22nd August 2014.  Away at 0850 in a very light easterly.  Managed to back out into the channel, and then in a flat calm left it to Penelope (autopilot) and motored on.  Oily sea.  I really could not see the bear at Sleeping Bear Dunes.  On approach, fog and drizzle came down reducing visibility to 25 yerds, maybe.  Slowly worked into the inner harbour where visibility improved dramatically and anchored in 9 feet at 1430.  Easy day.

21st August 2014.  Left Elk Rapids at 0900 in flat calm conditions and motored North round the peninsula to Leland Marina.  Wind NW 7 knots later in the dayand in the slip by 1445.  Easy day for 44 sm.

19th - 20th August 2014.  At Elk Rapids Marina.  Ian and Annie Champion signed on.  Water filled. 

18th August 2014.  Hopped across to Elk Rapids 1400 -1500.  The forecast was for storms and SE wind to 15 knots so I figured I'd sleep better not being in an exposed anchorage.  Cloudy with showers.  SE wind, though light to moderate.

17th August 2014.  Philip and Bob came aboard at 1100 and we pumped out, and then took the Charlevoix bridge opening at 1130.  Motored at about 7 knots in rolly, then calm conditions down to Old Mission Bay, getting the hook set at 1540 on the second attempt.  Wind N at 5 - 10 went SE at 12 - 15 overnight.  Lee shore and quite open.

6th - 16th August 2014.  At Charlevoix while Diane visited home.  Water filled, engines checked, and strainers cleaned.

This narrative should now be up to date, with all the bits missed in Canada added from the log.  All pretty bare bones, but it gives the idea of the routine, and the locks.

5th August 2014.  Waited till 1000 to depart (anchor well in, muddy, and needed to be broken out) so as not to arrive too early at Charlevoix.  A very pleasant run West down the South shore of Little Traverse Bay to get the 1230 bridge opening right on time.  Pumped out at Wards and then into slip C41 at Charlevoix City Marina.  An awkward arrival.  Here for at least 7 days.  Light E wind, calm seas, sunny. 

4th August 2014.  There was quite heavy fog and we delayed departure until 0850, though it was still an issue, and I was very glad of the radar.  After passing under the Mackinac Bridge (very impressive) the fog lifted slowly until after the turn South off the NW point of the MI peninsula we ended up in bright sunshine.  The NW wind rose, as forecast, but by this time it was on the stern.  Cold in the morning though.  Anchored in Harbor Springs inner harbor just before 1600.  One link of the anchor chain jammed sideways in the hawse pipe so Diane had to back and fill while I dismantled the chain locker only to find that was not the issue.  Longish, though easy day with the autopilot taking it nearly all the way.  The fog, radar, and numerous ferries made for an interesting first hour.      

3rd August 2014.  Waited until 1100 to depart to arrive at Mackinac Island at 1300 after a flat calm run - apart from the wakes that is.  Into slip 42 without incident.  Circumnavigated the island by bike and walked the deck at the Grand Hotel - "Somewhere in Time".  A weak cold front is due tonight.  A very full marina, and very full of very BIG boats.  Daunting.     

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Promenade at Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island

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Diane at Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island

2nd August 2014.  1000 departure with a very muddy anchor chain and she had to be broken out.  A very slow and easy run down to Cheboygan County Marina arriving just after 1300.  Flat calm to start with and 12/15 kts North on arrival.  Straight into the slip at a pretty and well run marina.

1st August 2014.  At anchor, Government Bay, Cheneaux Islands.

31st July 2014.  Left the marina at 0900 and motored the 25 sm to Government Bay in the Cheneaux Islands along the South side of the Northern peninsula of Michigan.  Overcast.  Wind West at 10 kts.  Cold.  Took three goes to get the anchor set in weed using 120' of chain in 18 feet.  In about 1230 .  Wind up - NW at 12-15 plus kts and now mostly overcast and colder. 

30th July 2014.  Back in the US and spent the day in the marina catching up on administration and shopping.  Cold night - low 50s but a warmish day - around 70.  Water tanks filled.

29th July 2014.  A beautiful anchorage here in Milford Haven, and lovely in the middle of the night when I went on deck.  Left at 0900 - no weed on the anchor, a plus - and motored slowly in and out of the islands to Drummond Island Yacht Haven where we cleared customs inbound to the US from Canada.  The lady was very nice.  Left at once for De Tour Marina, getting in about 1300.  It was 1430 before we were in the slip after pumping out and filling the fuel tanks.  It is quite cold, especially the wind.

28th July 2014.  Lines dropped at 0840 and motored out.  The forecast was 15/20 kts NE going NW but the local civil forecast was 20 kph decreasing.  As it turned out the marine forecast was right.  Motored in close to the shore but as we diverged and the fetch increased so it became a little rougher.  The wind got to 20 kts plus and it was cold.  Not all unpleasant, but cold.  A straightforward motoring execise outside, using the autopilot all the way to Milford Haven on St Joseph Island, just still in Canada.  Anchored at 1400 in 12 feet, good holding.  The sun peeked out but the wind still blew down the bay.  Good anchorage at the end of the North Channel.

27th July 2014.  Stayed at Blind River.  The forecast was for a cold front to "sweep" across the Great Lakes so we stayed in.  As it turned out, the day was quite good, but last night was horrible.  Wind, cold, rain then calm and mist and fog.  Evil. 

26th July 2014.  Anchor up at 0905 after a leisurely morning.  Motored at 1300/1350 and later 1400/1450 to get in a little earlier.  Quite cool/cold most of the day with 10/15 kts SW.  Through Little Detroit Cut after waiting for a 52 footer, then calm but a little rolly steadily all day.  Rain and cloud and northern thunder as we motored into Blind River Marine Park and we were alongside at 1450.  Light rain.  A longer day than I intended with 45 sm.  The scenery stayed more or less the same.  This is our northernmost point at 46 degrees 10.688 minutes North. 

25th July 2014.  Dropped the lines at 0845 and took the Lansdowne Channel through to Little Current.  Took the engines to 2150 for an hour to make the Goat Island swing bridge in nice time (and give them a run), but everyone hung back half a mile from the bridge for some reason.  At a more sedate 1450/1550 worked North and then South and South-West into the anchorage on the NE side of Amendroz Island.  The anchor took a couple of goes to set in the spot I wanted, ending up in the same place both times.  Weed we think.  Hook down at 1330 for a slightly longer day than anticipated.  Wind West at about 12 kts with a light to moderate chop.  Cool. 

24th July 2014.  Started at 0830 and motored through Collins Inlet the 21 sm to Killarney.  At Sportsman's Inn Marina by 1130 - they had room - and we pumped out.  Wind West at 12 to 15 kts.  Water filled.  Very much Bourke Street, and for a Thursday too. 

23rd July 2014.  Shifted anchorage at 0530.  Although I don't think we dragged, the stretching of the chain back the other way as the wind went North (and cold, and strong) put us on one anchor bouey and in danger of hitting another boat.  Motored down to the East, reanchored and went back to bed to sleep.  Underway at 1130 with the wind North at 20 plus knots but only a mile of fetch.  Quite bouncey but OK.  Motored to Beaverstone Bay and anchored off Burnt Island in a cove to the North.  Some strong bullets still but the anchor bit, and with 100' plus bridle of chain down, and some room to drag, unlike last night, we seem quite secure.  I will sleep better tonight I think.

22nd July 2014.  The forecast was marginal, predicted to deteriorate with increasing wind so we went at 0745.  A lttle tricky on the navigation for just over an hour to get out, and then took departure at 0906 for the outside run to Bustard Islands.  Rolly, and a little queasy making for 3.5 hours till we turned East, and then all was placid.  Worked our way into Bustard Islands harbour behind Tie Island.  The hook bit in 14' of water.  I dived on it, thinking it rock, but it all seemed to be mud.  We will see in the morning.  Done by 1345 after a bouncey day.  Wind rising and the anchorage crowded and tight.  Thunder to be heard in the West.

21st July 2014.  We waited for the heavy fog to lift and were underway at 0940.  Had to break the anchor out.  Went on the outside to cut off some distance and actually had to navigate.  Some narrows, but we were able to use the autopilot quite a lot.  Past Parry Sound, and then after bypassing our first anchorage, continued 20 more miles to Hopewell Bay on Shawanaga Island.  The forecast is for more wind tomorrow, so we took the longer day while we could.  Light South wind and moderate temperature.  Water temperature 70 degrees F.  Hook down at 1445 in 12 feet of water for a 5 hour day.  Good holding.

20th July 2014.  Forty-five years since the moon landing.  Round to the fuel dock to pump out and then underway at 1015.  Easy going to start with but then the narrow cuts between the rocks, just submerged, off to each side.  A couple of open stretches, but otherwise, full concentration.  Rain to start with but a warmish day, partly cloudy, after noon.  Found room in the no name bay off 12 Mile Bay and anchored in 14' with good holding.  Not too bad for day 1 of Georgian Bay.  Very light South wind.  Done by 1420. 

19th July 2014.  At Bay Port Marina.  Main engines' oil, oil filters, secondary fuel filters and impellers changed.

18th July 2014.  At Bay Port Marina.  Mast raised with some difficulty and deck tidied up.  Fridge and freezer defrosted.  Generator oil, oil filter and secondary fuel filter changed.

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Over the Top on the Big Chute

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Crossing the Road on the Big Chute

17th July 2014.  Took the first locking at 0900 with three others and then Lock 43 with two of them, and then the Big Chute.  Quite remarkable, but no one told me that we would be sitting on our keel (I thought we sat in the slings) and when we grounded I got the fright of my life.  Really something.  The entry I made was marginal.  Then some intense navigation with several channels branching, and marked, but not on the chart.  Then the last lock for a while at Port Severn - they opened quickly as we milled around.  But once out, it is a very narrow winding channel with strong following current, though well marked.  Again, there was a marked channel (just not on the chart) going left, while we needed to go right.  Hard to pick which was the right one, and with the current pushing you on, very nervous making.  Then Potato Channel (very, very narrow) which was OK and then the run out across the bay to Midland and Bay Port Yachting Centre arriving about 1630.  Earlier in the day, in the cut after McDonalds, a large power boat suddenly swerved to port broadside in front of us.  Not sure how, or why but it made for an interesting minute or two as we both stopped, and he reversed down to make room.  I suspect he hit the side of the channel.  I can only assume he was distracted as he entered the curved entrance to the cut, and suddenly looked up to find us in front of him.  I had sounded the horn on entry.  He did not.

16th July 2014.  Dropped the lines at 0850 and with four smll craft arrived at the swing bridge (very short wait - she opened early for us) and then went through all five locks with them.  All were efficient, and the morning took far less time than anticipated.  Then into Simcoe Lake.  The forecast was about right, though boats coming the other way said "rough".  1.5 to 2 foot waves, and it blew a little harder - about 18kts - at the top end.  Then The Narrows and hand steering and constant navigation to Lock 42 where we tied up above the lock in a very nice spot.  In by 1500.  Seemed an easier day.  Weather coldish with a chill wind.  Water filled last night.  Weather clearing late in the afternoon.

15th July 2014.  Rain.  0830 with an easy anchor retrieval - no weed and little mud.  Motored back down Pigeon Lake and round to Bobcaygeon Lock.  Two house boats ahead of us but we fitted in after being about to take the blue line when they hailed us.  Then two more locks, across lakes, through the very narrow and shallow Trent Canal and down the Kirkfield Lift Lock.  It went down really rapidly.  Then another canal, another shallow lake and on to Sunset Cove Marina.  Pumped out and alongside by 1615.  It seemed like a long day but really wasn't.  Only four locks and some open water where the autopilot could take it - but the canals offset that to some extent.  The day cleared around noon and the SW breeze was 15+ kts later in the day.  Love the lift locks.

14th July 2014.  Only four locks but they were slow.  The first, 27, took he best part of an hour, another holding off forever (30 I think) and the blue line at 31.  Slow going, but some open stretches in between.  Pushed off at 0830 and then as described.  Now the shore is very glacial, the water clear, and the narrows narrow.  We opted to anchor out in he North part of Pigeon Lake rather than chance Bobcaygeon and the wall.  Nice spot, but a bit exposed to the South.  Forecast 15kts SE going SW.  Good holding though.  Engines off at 1615.  Weather - clouds and sun.  It looked like rain but cleared up again. 

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In the Pan of the Lift Lock - Going Up

13th July 2014.  Another adventure in weed land.  It took 15 minutes (0800 - 0815) to get the anchor up and Diane was still cleaning it for some time while we were underway.  Wet, raining and starting to blow but we motored up Rice Lake and turned right up the Otonabee River.  Rain, and then around Peterborough it started to clear, but the wind increased.  A total of 8 locks, including Lock 21, the lift lock, where you sit in the pan.  Impressive and efficient.  We pushed on in sunshine, and a rising south wind to moor on the upside of Lock 26 at 1630.  Another long day for the 8 locks and 39 miles.  

12th July 2014.  It was a lovely spot alongside the wall at Lock 13.  Underway at 0840 and through five locks only.  On our own in them all but we had to wait at a couple for downhill traffic.  We ended up anchor down behind White Island in Rice Lake in weed.  But she seems to hold OK.  Good weather, but forecast to deteriorate tonight.  At anchor by 1445 for a short day, but it is too far to the next stopping place and we wanted to be on the hook. 

11th July 2014.  A very long day.  13 locks and only 32 sm.  Away at 0830 with a push from Craig, and alongside the up side of Lock 13  at 1800.  Tired, but not the gut-wrenchng I had expected.  Steady work with the locks coming thick and fast.  Dog was totally disgusted at the whole deal and opted out, lying asleep and ignoring it all.  Not much more to add.  Perfect weather and light wind and the locks coordinated beautifully.  We locked through all but 13 with the same boat.  The generator was not pumpng water when tried.  Cleaned the quite dirty strainer to no avail and then replaced the impeller which had disintegrated.  Bits everywhere.  She now pumps a lot of water - more than we have ever seen.  It was just what I needed after the 13 lock 9.5 hour day.  I really slept well.   

10th July 2014.  Arrived in Trenton, Ontario, Canada yesterday afternoon and we are taking the day off for provisioning, laundry and so on.  And of course the marina here had WiFi, hence this update.  Since the last post we have trekked North up the canal system and Lake Champlain to Sorel, where we turned left up the St. Lawrence and through the two Waterway commercial locks to Montreal.  Then up the Ottawa River to Ottawa, and along the Rideau Canal to Kingston, and then yesterday along the north shore of Lake Ontario to Trenton, where we are about to enter the Trent-Severn canal to get to Lake Huron. 

9th July 2014.  0730 departure after walking Halcyon down the dock since the wind was pinning her on.  The wind was 20 plus kts all night and the lake looked marginal at 0600 but we opted to give it a go.  A bit roughish to start with but once behind the islands, it wasn't too bad.  It was anpother long day, not being tied up intil 1630 so 9 hours motoring at 1500 and 6.8 - 7.2 but 1300 to start with to avoid bashing.  The autopilot had it most of the way apart from a couple of tight spots.  West, then North, then West into a fair head wind.  Good reception at Fraser Park Marina and all snug.  After some doubts about leaving, it was a satisfying day for 67 sm.  Tanks dipped at 7/8ths port engine 500.5.  

8th July 2014.  0735 and it took a while to get the huge ball of weed and mud off the anchor and chain.  Once up, as I motored out the narrow cut, Pewoo laboured on cleaning the mess up.  The windlass could just lift it.  Back on track and 10 minutes early for the swing bridge at Brass Point (0900) and then locks 43/44/45 followed by a longish wait for upbound traffic at the 46/47/48/49 combination.  Finally through and then went hardish and made the bridge opening at Kingston with 10 minutes to spare.  He opened spot on time.  Turn right back into the last of the St. Lawrence and into Portsmouth Olympic Harbour Marina.  Water filled.  Pumped out.  Took on 640 liters of diesel - hopefully enough to reach Michigan.  7 locks.  The weather was foggy with low cloud early, then burnng off to a pleasnt day with light to moderate SSW.  A line of quite severe storms came through about 1800.  Heavy rain.    

7th July 2014.  Lovely anchorage.  We sat on the deck at dusk just feeling the serenity.  Then, quite late, the mozzies arrived.  Really lovely spot, but a lot of weed on the anchor and it took some time to clear it all off.  Motored out, back onto the magenta line.  8 locks for the day, the last seeming less professional.  The diesels were starting to smoke so ran them at 2000 for 10 minutes.  A lot of stuff came out and they ran better with less exhaust than before.  Took the narrow channel into Morton Bay - better than it looks - and hit heaps of weed on the first try but got adequate holding on the second.  Overcast with periods of rain all day and moderate to strong winds early.  Coolant leak on port engine.  Tightened the hose clamp which was quite loose.  Checked all the others.  Away at 0800 and anchor down at 1430.  But still a more wearing day than yesterday.

6th July 2014.  Another civilized start at 0850.  A little wait for the swing (very manual) bridge but we were right on time at 0900 exactly.  Somehow today did not seem quite as hard as yesterday.  13 locks and we did well at most, getting the routine down for port side to.  The one stb'd side to was only fair.  The locks were great.  We elected for Nobles Bay in 20 feet, dragging comprehensively the first try, but ending up hooked on the second, a little closer in.  Very clear water.  Hook down (second time) at 1700.  A long day but quite enjoyable.  The wind up a bit on the lake made it not so pleasant, but all right.     

5th July 2014.  A long day despite the 0900 enforced start because that's when the locks and bridges come on line.  We did 9 locks for the day and that was enough - 17 of 49 down.  As I said, a long day, though most of the locks were waiting for us and we went straight in.  There was significant navigation all day.  The initial run out of Ottawa was very pretty.  The last lock was Burritts Rapids and we moored against the stone wall on the up side with power.  The maneuvering and tieing up and racing up and down to the flie bridge at each lock is wearing.  Tied up by 1700 after 9 full hours.  It's like having a bloody job!  Considering the locks, 40 miles was pretty good.     

4th July 2014.  A beautiful anchorage in good clay holding but a smelly paper mill to the North.  Some mozzies.  Off again at 0800 and motored out and on to Ottawa.  On approach to the blue line, the lock gates opened and we were waved in, along with another boat.  The book said East side blue line, but it was West, and Diane had just finished setting up for stb'd side to when we were waved in for a port side tie.  We made it.  The first lock was a scramble but by the eighth of the tier we were getting better.  Getting from one to the next was hard.  A tight fit, swirlies, a boat ahead, stb'd side to, a concrete pier close astern, and having to get off the side in wind setting you on.  Very nervous making.  Out the last gate and scraped the antennae on the bridges right after.  Forgot about that.  Took the last slot on the downtown tie up at 1330 after hectic activity.  Cold early but a warm afternoon. 

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Alongside in Ottawa

3rd July 2014.  A line of storms went through on dusk and we got 25 - 30 kts SW/W/NW but the heavy stuff slid by to the NW.  The rain continued but the wind dropped back.  Excellent holding.  We retrieved the hook and were underway by 0800 for the 0830 lockage at Ecluse Carillon.  Unfortunately the first (up) was at 0930 so we spent an hour on the blue line and Walker got to explore for a while.  This was a 65 foot rise and very impressive with a top lift lower gate.  A floating dock helped.  Out onto the Ottawa again by 1015 and motored more or less in company with the other two boats that locked through with us all day.  A long day, 48 miles from 0800 till 1620 but Penelope (autopilot) did good work.  Felt our way off the river and behind Clarence Island to anchor in 20 feet with excellent holding.  At least it bit hard with 120 feet of chain and bridle.  The port Racor pressure gauge has been slowly rising and reached the top half of the yellow today.  I changed the filter - the old one was very, and surprisingly dirty.  No pressure now and I ran the engine for 15 minutes up to 1600 with no hesitation.  Should make Ottawa tomorrow.      

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My Boat!

2nd July 2014.  Left the dock at 0835 and cleared away from the fuel dock after pumping out at 0900.  Most efficient.  Same nav out - easier than it looks on the chart - and then to the St. Anne de Belleview Lock and 2 feet up.  Again, efficient.  Sat at the blue line for 15 minutes only, and the floating dock inside makes it easy.  If only the attendant didn't throw your lines off too soon and when you are not ready.  Barom at 1008 with little squalls of cloud but no rain.  Hot.  The wind rose to 25 kts and we motored, sometimes out on a lake and sometimes behind islands.  The day turned out longer than we expected.  Hook down about 1445 in Brazeau Baie in 15 feet with a fresh breeze.  She bit hard.  Motored at 1400 varying 6.8 to 4.6 kts with adverse current, now in the Ottawa River.  Tanks dipped at just over three quarters.     

1st July 2014.  Barbara Holmes signed off, heading to New York City.  Water filled.  Barometer 1006 after falling.  Stayed at the marina to reprovision.

30th June 2014.  Away at 0900 motoring very slowly so as not to arrive at the marina too early.  St. Catherine Lock took us as soon as the tanker cleared the lock - about 15 or 20 minutes.  Continued on and turned to stbd out of the St. Lawrence Waterway, and North and East for Port de Plaisance de Lachine.  The navigation looked frightful on the chart but turned out to be quite straightforward.  Docked by 1300 after about 22 miles.  Nice place but the WiFi is down. 

29th June 2014.  Lovely anchorage.  Damn near perfect.  Mud at the bottom and I had to break it out.  Motored very slowly out the South end of the channel and never saw less than 10 feet, despite the chart.  The current against us had us at 1400 and 4.5 kts - up to 5, but down to 3.4 near the end.  Many, many power boats and broken and uncomfortable water nearing and in Montreal.  Split off to port to take the Rive de Sud Canal and pulled into the Lock St. Lambert holding area, only to be told you can't stay overnight.  Apparently five ships have lost steering so far this year and they do not want you squished at the dock.  After a 1.5 hour wait (arrived about 1430) we locked through with four others and motored four miles to anchor in the first turning basin in 22 feet.  I was assured no ships would need to turn tonight, and had permission to be there.  Hook down at 1700.  A longer day than anticipated.  

28th June 2014.  Nice spot.  Underway at 0835 with the current and made good time to Sorel.  1200 revs making 7.4 kts.  Turned SW up the St. Lawrence River (Fleuve) about 1000 and went down to 4.5 - 5.0 kts at 1400 revs.  Edged up behind La Grande Isle to anchor very close to shore in 13 feet with 0.5 kt of current to keep us straight.  Anchor at 1315. 

27th June 2014.  Off at 0845 and motored at 1200 (!) making 6.9 to 7.5 kts.  The current was about 1.5 kts but not mentioned anywhere.  A fast run down to the Riviere Richelieu at idle speed to the Saint-Ouse Lock where we locked through on the floating dock.  Tres simple and facile.  Tied up on the dock below the lock at 1300 after 28 sm.  Warm, light breeze, and a nice short run.  I didn't want to go to Sorel, but we are only 12 sm short of the St. Lawrence.  Filled the water last night.

26th June 2014.  We took the lock opening at 0900 and then motored slowly (4.7 kts) along the Chambly Canal beside the Riviere Richelieu about 8 miles to locks 8 and 7 then quickly, 6/5/4 and then got stuck at the bridge before the precipitous descent 3/2/1 into Chambly Basin.  Into the Marina de Chambly to pump out.  No diesel.  Maneuvering was tricky using the wind to drift down to the dock, and then having to turn in about 45 feet to come stbd side to, across the way.  Expensive to pump out (CAD$18) and about CAD$2.00 a foot.  But we needed the pump out and the power was nice.  So we covered 10 miles in 5.25 hours of which about an hour was spent waiting at the bridge before 3/2/1.  OK for fuel for a while, according to my calculations. 

25th June 2014.  Rained all night after midnight and into the morning.  Anchor up at 0720 (light mud, but well hooked) and motored out in rain, mist, and almost no wind.  Rain cleared approaching the Richelieu and a light/moderate and cool North wind came in.  Maybe the front.  Docked at Quai Richelieu as instructed and cleared Canadian Customs inbound.  Receipt number 1499517 for 60 days.  Decal 07075269, whatever that number is for.  Away again about 1000 and we came up the Riviere Richelieu to St. Jean where we entered the Chambley Canal.  Bridge attendents and lockmaster nice as pie.  Purchased season ecluse and d'amarrage passes.  39 miles at 1400.  Lower speed to time the first bridge. 

24th June 2014.  0815 departure in drizzle, cool/cold with a South wind at 15 - 20 kts.  Under autopilot most of the way at 1400 and 7 kts plus and went North and tucked in behind Nichols Point about 1240.  It was 36 sm and cold.  Nice to be down below again.  The point gave fair/moderate protection from the waves (2 - 3 feet) out on the lake.

23rd June 2014.  Made the 0800 opening of Lock 12 right on time.  They were using one gate, which made entry, and especially exit (with the swirlies) stressful.  Down about 20 feet and off into the lower, narrow portion of Lake Champlain.  Able to use the autopilot (Penelope) once the lake widened out.  Anchor down in Kingsland Bay, VT about 1515 after 56 miles.  Very light winds came up in the afternoon, and the forecast is not too good for the next couple of days.  Took two goes to anchor as the chain jammed, not having been used for some time - like Northern Chesapeake. 

22nd June 2014.  Off at 0815 after a relatively quiet night despite the lock operating and the odd barge going through.  Out of the Hudson and into the Champlain Canal proper.  Some bridges were tight, with about a foot.  The locks worked well, and we came down again in 9 and 11 before mooring alongside in Whitehall about 1435.  We got power when one of the boats left.  Ran at 1400 till the watershed and then at 1300.  With three of us the locking system worked well.  35 miles in warm weather with light winds.

Currently alongside the city dock in Whitehall, New York and about to enter Lake Champlain tomorrow.  We made it under the limiting seventeen foot bridge with six inches to spare.  I thought I had five inches, but in fresh water she sits an inch lower, decreasing the air draft but increasing the water draft.  We should be in Canada on Tuesday or Wednesday when internet access will cease apart from WiFi at marinas.  Verizon lied when I checked with them before leaving and they want $25 for 100 Mb now for the service.  Don't even ask about the phone charges.  They lied about that too.  So this site will not be updated for a while, probably restarting about 10th August although the Spot track will continue and you will at least be able to see where we are. 

21st June 2014.  Off at 0830 with a slight flood tide which kicked the stern nicely off the dock.  All day at 1400 and 7.1 - 5.2 - 6.1.  Through the Troy Lock, turn right at the bifurcation, then through the Champlain Locks 1 through 5 and under the limiting bridge with about the calculated 5 inches to spare.  All locks most efficient, but Lock 5 had heavy barge traffic and we had to wait 25 minutes and we were in the lock with a barge.  Moored alongside the floating dock just North of Lock 5 at 1615.  A longer day than anticipated, and we covered less ground.  Weather cool in the morning and warm in the afternoon.  Very light winds.  

20th June 2014.  Departed 0800, gaining tide for the first couple of hours at 1400 raised to 1500 when the tide turned quite strongly.  A long day motoring North to Albany Yacht Club where we pumped out and refueled.  Took 136 gallons.  Mast lowered, antennae lowered.  Still a zip on the bimini to reconnect.  We were alongside in moderate current at 1600 for a full 8 hour day at the helm and setting up for, and lowering the mast.  Very tired.

9th - 19th June 2014.  At Rondout Yacht Basin waiting for Diane to return.  Head hoses disconnected and through hulls closed.  Water filter cleaned.  Stuffing boxes tightened.  Batteries checked.  Water tanks filled.  Bimini removed, repaired and reinstalled.  Can't remember what else, but I was very busy.  Barbara Holmes came on board with Diane on the 19th. 

8th June 2014.  Left at 0905 backing down the dock at some speed and just able to hold her off with the flood tide at about 0.6 kts trying to pin us on.  A warm day, and motored up the very pretty Hudson.  Some very impressive houses lined the shore ridge - one looked very Frank Lloyd Wrightish.  We had the end of the flood (7.1 @ 1350) and the start of the ebb (5.9 @ 1350) then turned left into the Rondout Creek with increased Sunday traffic, and a small freighter coming down river.  Slowly crept down to Rondout Yacht Basin and in easy conditions, backed into the slip, tied up by 1300 or a little after.  Checked in for seven days, initially, as Diane is going back home for a week on Wednesday. 

7th June 2014.  Departed at 0830 and covered the 26 miles to Newburgh, Riverfront Marina, in 4 plus hours at 1350 revs.  West Point was not what we expected, being older and larger than our mental picture.  Wooded hills line a narrowing Hudson.  Some wash alongside at the marina.  Many trains.  Pumped out the holding tank.  Newburgh sure does jump on a Saturday night.  The music from the adjacent restaurant/bar finished at 0230. 

6th June 2014.  Stayed another day.  Filled the water tanks.

5th June 2014.  Rest day.  Planning and moving and checking and docking and connecting every day becomes wearing.

4th June 2014.  Left at 0910 threading our way out.  The current here lags even more, 2.5 to 3 hours, and we motored at 1400 making 3.5 kts slowly increasing to 7.5 by 1430.  It was nice to leave the ferry slop behind and motor past the new Freedom Tower, the Colgate Clock, the Intrepid, Concorde, Yonkers, George Washington Bridge, Sing Sing, the Tappen Zee bridge and into Half Moon Bay Marina by 1440.  Nice to have the change to a river again - flat and wide with green scenery.  Warm to hot with rain expected.  Pleasant day.  And again I didn't hit anything getting out or in, but tomorrow is another day. 

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Passing Under the Tappen Zee Bridge

3rd June 2014.  The current lagged the tide more than I thought, but at 0630 the owner of the marina very politely offered to drive us out of the narrow confined slip with 2 - 3 kts of current locking us in.  I was grateful, and he did an obviously experienced job of it.  No drama.  Out through the entrance again swirling and pitching a bit and then motored in excellent conditions up the New Jersey coast, round Sandy Hook (crossing Popeye's outbound track) up the channels, under the Veranazzo Narrows bridge, past Lower Manhattan and Lady Liberty and into Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City.  A tight fit but the view made it, and the expense, worth it.  Dinner ashore with a unique magnificent view as the lights came on.  We were alongside by 1330.  Tanks dipped at just over 3/4.

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Halcyon on the Hudson River

2nd June 2014.  We dropped the lines at 0555 and got the tide out the channel.  There was again a small craft warning for hazardous seas, but after the first hour or two it was quite benign, with just the swell and a slowly rising wind from astern.  The New Jersey garbage effect was again apparent.  We covered 60 sm to the Manasquan Inlet and arrived off the entrance about 1300.  The wind was up to maybe 20 kts and although we had just a slight ebb/slack water, the entrance was narrow, breaking heavily on both sides, and an act of faith.  After lousy instructions we finally found our slip and only nudged one piling getting tied off.  The last part of the day had a rising SW wind and we started to slew around a bit.  The fishing craft also had New Jersey attitude.

1st June 2014.  Departed 0840 and out the channel through the swirlies and then NE into 5 kts of wind, but 5 foot waves.  Cruised at 1500, starting at 6.3 kts building to 7.1.  The ride was uncomfortable (there was a small craft hazardous seas warning in effect) but not too bad, just baddish.  Kept about 2 to 2.5 miles offshore and came in the well marked Atlantic City channel to tie up at the Farley State Marina (run by the
Golden Nugget casino) by 1300.  Longish, roughish 50 mile day - she moves around a bit in a seaway.

31st May 2014.  Due to wind, we stayed in the marina and did some minor provisioning.

30th May 2014.  The forecast looked even better at 0515 and Tim was there to let our lines go at 0600 precisely.  Cleared G1 at 0615 and turned south down Delaware Bay/River in a cool/cold overcast with early drizzle.  There was a line of boats making their way with 2 kts of favourable current which held for the first two hours.  We made good time as the cloud slowly lifted.  Turned off the main channel (one barge, one ship, little wake) and with a quartering sea and about 10 kts of breeze worked into the Cape May Canal.  One idiot fishing trawler came by at 10 kts and rolled us around severely.  Made a u-turn into South Jersey Marina where it took me a while to line up for the stern in slot.  I got there in the end with no drama.  We had a good day for the traverse of the Bay but it's 15 - 20 on the nose outside for tomorrow so I think we are here.  59 sm in 7 hours being tied up just after 1300.

29th May 2014.  The wind stayed up and the seas rose and we bounced around.  Again the GB42 was very stable and we were not at all fussed.  There were up to 2 foot breaking waves as the wind was against the tide for a while in the open roadstead.  It was raining quite heavily with low cloud and mist in the morning and remained cold and drizzly all day.  Another very muddy anchor to clean as we sat tide against wind working around by engine to recover it.  Motored up into the C&D Canal (Chesapeake & Delaware) which made for easy going, getting away at 0830 after waiting for the rain to ease.  One barge going the other way had us hobby-horsing for a couple of miles after.  The wake bounces of the sides of the canal reinforcing itself and setting up standing waves.  I would hate to have met a large ship there.  Then a left turn up the Delaware River, another left turn down the old canal entrance and alongside at the Delaware City Marina to refuel.  I managed to dock twice, in a couple of knots of current without destroying anything, and was even complimented on my boat handling.  I expect he was being sarcastic.  Arrived about 1200 after 26 cold miles.  Water filled.  Walker was greeted warmly by the owner, who has two hounds himself.  We had to have Dog "speak" into the radio so that his dogs in the office could hear.  Still cool to cold at 1900 with drizzle.  We hope for a 0600 departure in the morning for Cape May depending on the weather.  The current looks fair to good. 

28th May 2014.  A line of storms came through with winds to 25 kts late in the day but we held well in the heavy rain and thunder.  Clear but overcast by morning.  Very muddy and well set anchor up at 0830 and away back out the river to the channel and then North.  The forecast was for storms but we made the anchorage at Ford Landing just off the Elk River by 1300 with just the odd rumble of thunder.  Hook set in 11 feet of which 2 were tide.  I put out 120 feet of chain plus bridle given the forecast putting us on a lee shore.  Some current.  A back door cold front came through at 1500 with ENE to 20 kts, gusting 25 plus down the length of the Bohemia River.  Of course.  Cooling now.  33 statute miles in 4.5 hours following the ship channel for most of the way - but no ships.

27th May 2014.  Very light winds overnight and the mooring became quite smooth with just enough movement to remind you that you are on a boat.  Dropped the mooring at 0810 and worked back to the main channel, under the bridge, up the bay and then turned left up the Middle River, just North of Baltimore, to anchor off Clark Point in 8 feet.  A very nice anchorage given the storms approaching.  We'll see, as the anchor took a few grabs to set.  Nice calm day of motoring.  Hook down at 1300.  Tanks dipped at just over three quarters.

26th May 2014.  Left at 0720 after taking time to clean a very dirty anchor chain.  Threaded our way back out and turn North up to Annapolis. Adverse current.  The weather was quite acceptable after the turn with SW winds at 5 to 10 kts and sunny skies.  Approaching Annapolis the traffic and the wash from their wakes became really awful.  A zillion boats of all sorts, the motor ones all putting up a huge wake.  We worked our way into Spa Creek and picked up a mooring.  Attached by about 1300 for 5.5 hours.  The mooring field is very bouncy.

25th May 2014.  Still at anchor.  Dinner with Kate and Ben in town and then they left for home.  We recovered the dinghy on board and flushed the motor.

24th May 2014.  Still at anchor.  Went ashore and had brunch with Kate and Ben.  They stayed on board with Indie Dog overnight.

23rd May 2014.  Put the dinghy in the water and went into St Michaels via the dinghy dock.  Sent off the oil samples.

22nd May 2014.  Awoke to heavy rain and a thunderstorm with hail.  It cleared quickly and we departed 0912 to arrive in the San Domingo Creek at 1215 to anchor in 8 feet (2 of tide). Storms late slid by to the North.

21st May 2014.  Fitted both the head and the macerator pump.  They appear to work.  Some scattered storms late.  Water tanks filled.

20th May 2014.  Hired a car and picked up the overhauled aft head and the new macerator pump at Stevensville and Chester MD respectively.  Found a Tractor Supply and bought 10 packets of licorice.  Reprovisioned.  Took a look at St Michaels by land.  

19th May 2014.  0832 and motored slowly out after a perfect anchorage.  No bugs, calm, no noise, good holding etc.  Best so far.  Out into the Chesapeake again with about 10- 12 kts from the N and a little bounce, but that's all.  We turned off up the Choptank River still with 0.5 - 1 kt adverse.  Cool early, warm later.  Into the Cambridge Municipal Yacht Basin up the separate channel and alongside by 1500 after 45 miles and 6.5 hours.  The Coast Guard wanted to inspect us coming in, but accepted the inspection sticker I had as good enough.  Nice day.

18th May 2014.  Dropped the lines at 0840 and motored out into a nasty NW chop.  Wind about 15 kts and partly cloudy and cool to cold.  Out the channel, through Kedges Strait and up Chesapeake into chop plus.  It wasn't rough, but we did take heavy spray on the fly bridge.  Everyone was uncomfortable as we hobby-horsed into the 2.5 - 4 foot mess.  It did subside as the day wore on and Dog was happier.  Motored up the Patuxent River and into Mill Creek where we anchored in 7 - 8 feet in a well protected spot.  Settled by 1600 making it 7:20 for about 42 miles.  Adverse current of about a knot most of the way.  Long day.  This is in at Solomons. 

17th May 2014.  Engines run for 25 minutes.  Oil samples taken.  Todd arrived at 0900 and we changed the oil, changed the oil filters, changed the fuel filters and changed the impellers.  Now using Rotella straight weight 30.  Engines run for about 10 minutes and no leaks apparent.  Std coupling checked as tight.  Port stuffing box tightened down. 

16th May 2014.  The pre-frontal mess came in and it has been blowing to 30 kts and raining solidly since about 0200, it now being noon.  We are very glad to be tied up in this yacht basin.  I have ordered a new macerator pump for pick up in Chester MD, and Todd should be down in the morning to do the oil changes.  I should probably do them myself, but the logistics of getting the oil (12 gallons) and transporting it and disposing of the old oil make it seem worth paying someone to do it.

15th May 2014.  The wind was still only 10 kts SSE at first light, but the fog that had come in after 2000 was mostly gone.  We left at 0700 trying to beat the expected 30 kt winds at 1300.  We motored out and NE across Chesapeake Bay in moderate conditions and then an idyllic downwind run N up Tangier Sound to Somers Cove Marina.  The entrance in at Crisfield is tight and the wind had risen to 25 kts for the entry.  Not a problem, but unsettling as you try and navigate.  Straight in to slip G7 where the dock hands tried to pull us alongside by hand against a 25 kt crosswind.  We had to explain, loudly, that they needed to get a turn around a cleat first.  I found a place to get hose clamps and reconnected the water hose and we filled the tanks (centre now turned off) and the water system ran just fine.  The macerator pump is leaking - one of the bolts holding it together seems stripped - I will try and locate a replacement.  In the slip by 1230 after a 41 miles in 5.5 hours, with current.  We ran at 1500 to start with, but with the tide, came up Tangier Sound at 1300 and 7.6 kts.  And of course when I checked the filters for the oil change, there was the little bag full of spare hose clamps I had bought before we started.  Weather due tonight. 

14th May 2014.  Heavy fog this morning.  We got away at 1030 in marginal but improving conditions.  I even put the radar on, which worked well.  Cool and damp with a very low overcast and light N wind.  We just motored up the coast with a little tide and turned into the Fishing Bay anchorage at Deltaville.  Nice anchorage but the SSE is due to rise overnight so I set 120 feet plus bridle in 18 feet of water and set it SSE of us.  Anchor down around 1500 after 35 miles.  After shutting down there was a continuing noise which turned out to be the fresh water pump running on.  After some diagnosis I found the main fresh water feed hose had dropped off its connection.  The water in the bilge was fresh and the tanks empty.  Some dickhead forgot to close off the centre tank after equalizing them at AYB.  The hose clamp had corroded  and the line was unsupported and hanging.  I can't find my spare hose clamps but we have enough bottled water to get by till the marina tomorrow.

13th May 2014.  There was almost no wind and we made the Great Bridge Bridge (that's right, it's the bridge at Great Bridge) for the 0800 opening.  Then the Great Bridge Lock and motored North at 1400 through the impressive industrial, ship and naval facilities.  We wanted to see the US from the water and this was it.  Diane counted 29 naval craft in one section, with a few LSDs and one full size aircraft carrier.  Then out the shipping channel at Hampton Roads - one incoming container ship gave us all the wash we could handle and I will slow down next time.  We then cut across North along the West shore of the Chesapeake dodging the bloody crab pots.  They are everywhere, including in the middle of channels.  Based on a forecast SE wind we felt our way into the Poquoson River to anchor in 6' at dead low water.  The wind immediately went NE exposing us to chop again.  Anchor down at 1500 making for a long day - 7 hours at the helm with some autopilot (her name is Penelope) but a constant crab pot watch.  We had adverse current of 1 to 1.5 knots most of the way.  Quite hot - about 90 F.  The haze deepened once we were at anchor and sea fog moved in reducing visibility.

12th May 2014.  Staying at the dock, for planning, cleaning, washing, shopping, power and water.

11th May 2014.  Again underway by 0800 since this would be a longish day.  A discon went through about 2130 and the wind went North, with lightning, for a while but by dawn was SW again.  A nice day and motored at 1450 and 7 kts.  Up the North River, through a cut and then up the long Currituck Sound.  Just before the sound we found Zwerver, a Dutch boat, aground.  We towed him off nicely but then when half a mile ahead saw him aground again and setting a kedge.  Up the sound, into the long canal, through the swing bridges and tied up at Atlantic Yacht Basin at 1430.  Before the North Landing bridge, "My Marilyn" a 114 foot Hatteras passed and roared away setting up a huge wash, which in turn put logs into the canal, either from the shore or stirred from the bottom.  Some were very large and we slowed and swerved the last couple of miles.  Took on 318 gallons of diesel.  After docking, refueling and connecting up, I was stuffed, a product of not much activity for too many days.  A long day of 6.5 hours for 50 miles.

10th May 2014.  Another 0750 start to try and beat the wind.  The anchor came up clean and cleanly.  Motored back to the ICW after a rolly night.  The wind went South and stayed at 15 kts so 2 foot waves came through, mostly on the beam.  North to the Alligator River bridge, through the chicane, and out across Albemarle Sound.  We rolled quite a bit, but not gut-wrenching.  We tucked round Camden Point in North River and anchored in 10 feet with the trip line.  Many biting flies.  Dog is again, not happy.  Hook down just after 1200 for an easy day.  34 miles.

9th May 2014.  Another 0800 start.  Threaded our way out and found quite a strong West wind.  Once turned East along the Pungo it was very pleasant, however.  Warm to hot.  Then the long, long canal up to the Alligator River.  We passed one yacht and then were passed (politely) by two huge power boats.  The navigation was quite straightforward, but it got down to 5.1 feet at the exit into the river.  Round the corner, up the river and anchor in 10 feet on the West shore.  We have a trip line rigged.  Dragged a bit before setting hard.  A long day, 51 miles in 6.5 hours.  The wind is blowing a bit SW and the anchorage is bouncy, but not bad.  The flies, that bite, are though.  Ran at 1400-1450 most of the day.

8th May 2014.  Underway by 0800 to try and cross the sounds before the wind came up.  Very muddy anchor and chain.  Motored out and up the Neuse.  A bit rolly - then a light West wind came up and things flattened out as we turned North.  Through the canal, across Pamlico Sound, and up the Pungo River to turn to std and slowly feel our way up Slade Creek to anchor in 9 feet.  The hook bit again and the chart says "ooze" on the bottom.  Ran at 1400/7.1 most of the day.  With the wind, things were quite pleasant on the sound.  Meant to be record hot today though.  A zillion, and I mean a zillion mosquitos coated the inside of the bimini in the morning.  I will try leaving the cockpit light off this evening.  Hook down and set by 1300 after 36 miles.

7th May 2014.  Cast off from the dock at 0915, the wind being off the dock and all other boats there having departed, it was about as easy as it gets.  Motored North at 1500, the speed down to 5.7 knots at one point.  We passed a barge in Adams Creek but he caught us after having taken a short cut in the Neuse River.  Easy navigation for a change and then a bit bouncey up the Neuse River which is quite open.  Dog was not happy.  A pleasure to turn to port into Broad Creek and sneak up to put the anchor down in good holding at 1400 after 33 miles.  Seems like a nice anchorage in 8 feet.  Overcast with 15 kts SE.  Forecast for 91 tomorrow.

Another Aside.  It is difficult to reconcile the local forecast, and the synoptic situation with the winds we have actually experienced over the last few days.  The sea breeze seems to be strong and quite overwhelms any other gradient wind.  But it chops and changes and varies in strength and direction almost hourly.  Today it blew 15 kts West in the morning, dwindled to nothing but swirls until about 1500 when it strengthened again from the West and then promptly switched to the East at 15 kts in the space of 10 minutes where it is now, but at 10 kts.  This one at least seems to be a pure sea breeze effect.  There appear to be multiple micro-climates here, and as far as wind is concerned, the forecast is not to be trusted.  Which makes choosing an anchorage difficult.  Oh how the Trade Winds have spoiled me.

6th May 2014.  Stayed at the marina for the day and went shopping in the courtesy car.  Water filled.  No-see-em netting fitted to the hatches. 

5th May 2014.  The wind moderated late from a 20 kt Southerly to 12 kts Easterly in the morning.  The hook came up easily with little mud.  We motored out at 0900 and went like hell for the bridge opening on the half hour at Onslow Beach.  We ended up making it nicely with three other boats, aCapella, Sanderling and Rejoice.  We just slotted in behind aCapella for the obstruction bit at G63/G61A and eased through there and just motored on at about 1400, sometimes with tide and sometimes against.  I was close to dozing at the wheel at one stage up along behind the spoil islands.  We figured our way through the maze at Morehead City and were tied up alongside at the Yacht Basin by 1500.  Not sure what the next leg is.  Tanks still a little over half full.  The skipper of aCapella is the creator of Active Captain it turns out, as a discussion on the dock revealed.  We have now come 1100 miles (statute, which is the way they measure things on the Waterway) from Tarpon Springs.

4th May 2014.  0750 departure.  Many boats had left (we didn't hear them go).  We motored to the Wrightsville Bridge, back the way we had come and were 35 minutes early for the opening.  A number of boats went through and we went to 1650 and 9.1 kts to make the Figure Eight Island Bridge, which we did, just.  Then routine motoring at 1500/7.3 to the next bridge, also opening only on the hour.  We milled around with 5 or 6 others with shoaling, as far as I could tell to 5' all the way across the channel.  With these boats all trying to avoid running aground, it was very tight and had my full attention.  I backed on down to deep water and took the last slot through.  The Surf City Bridge is not for sissies.  Then motored on.  The wind died from the West and the South-East sea breeze came in and grew.  Arrived at Camp Lejeune hook down at 1430 after a longish day.  The anchor really bit and I think we might be snagged.  We'll find out in the morning.  No live firing to close the ICW tomorrow, but artillery fire in the morning.  43 miles for the day.

3rd May 2014.  Managed to clear the blocked head last night.  Adventures in shit land.  Much contortion and effort was required to work on it and I was stuffed.  Left at 0930 after a good anchorage except when the ferries were running: then it was rolly.  We got the rising tide up the Fear River, through Snows Cut and then North behind the barrier islands.  A wakeboarding female cut right in front of us and fell off.  I veered to port to avoid literally running her down - she was that close - only to find the tow boat had as well and I went to the very edge of the channel to avoid him and his trailing tow rope.  Really, very, very stupid.  She was dead lucky I was not checking the chart at the time.  We came in the South entrance to the anchorage at Wrightsville Beach using Banks Channel.  Many boats and it took a second go to get set in a clear spot I was happy with.  0930 to 1230 at 1400 for 23 miles.

2nd May 2014.  Underway at 0825 without hitting anything.  Our speed varied depending on the watershed, but there were no shallow spots seen and reduced stress levels.  No vibration apparent from the running gear from idle to 1550.  Fought the current after turning North into the Fear River near Southport NC and anchored in a somewhat exposed spot behind a spoil island.  Light rain began to fall after anchoring in 10 feet.  It may be rolly due to ferries.  A large private semi-displacement boat roared by as we approched the anchorage.  I turned into the wake fully, but it was still very violent, the worst I think I have ever had to deal with.  Five hours for 40 miles but even though easy, that's about enough.  Now at mile marker 306 - to go to Norfolk.  For'd head not working.  We'll let it "sog" for a while.

1st May 2014.  We decided to take the day off.  Fuel at 2/3 exactly according to my dipstick.  Filled the water tanks late in the day.

A couple of asides.

The state of the Intracoastal Waterway is a bloody disgrace.  You keep reading reports that the Corps of Engineers conducted a survey, found severe shoaling, but can't do anything about it due to budgetary constraints.  The Waterway is a major national strategic asset and carries a massive amount of commercial barge traffic, which is unfortunately decreasing as the shoaling increases.  The "project depths" they publish are nothing but wishful thinking, and so far we have had to work the tide nearly all the way.  I cannot believe that a nation like this has let this piece of the infrastructure decay to the point it has.  It was the only way to get the external fuel tank for the shuttle from Houston to Cape Canaveral, for example. 

On a more positive note ...  we have been floored by the friendliness and helpfulness of the people here in Little River, South Carolina.  James at Lightkeepers Marina took my reservation mid-afternoon Friday after we hit the log, and had Larry the diver call me later that afternoon.  On Saturday James was there to take the lines, and Larry, Saturday afternoon, came as promised and dived on the boat and gave the diagnosis.  He then called Nick at Grande Harbour who offered to haul us Sunday afternoon if it would help, but based on the tides we opted for Monday morning.  He hauled us exactly as promised, Larry showed up exactly as promised and was reinstalling the shaft and prop, duly straightened, 24 hours after pulling it.  And Nick had us in the water again next morning and James was there again to take the lines at the marina.  The charges were fair and reasonable for the work performed, and everyone knew his business, and worked at it.  Even the motel staff waived the weight limit on dogs given our circumstances.  And having spoken at length to the people as the work progressed, they are the salt of the bloody earth, and interestingly enough, mostly ex-military.  Diane even started talking about looking at land around here!

 

30th April 2014.  We checked out of the motel, dog and all and at the yard had them antifoul the starboard running gear.  We were back in the water by 0930 and while I stowed our gear again, Diane took the rental car round to the marina and walked back, with dog.  I opened the engine sea cocks and snugged down the starboard stuffing box, which was flowing once back in the water.  I had tightened it down only a little after the shaft was reinstalled.  We backed out of the slip and motored round to the same spot in the marina without incident.  Then we tidied up what had become a messy boat, did some cleaning and bled and restarted the refrigeration.  A moderately severe squall line came through about 1400 and with the forecast for tomorrow bad, we may defer departure till Friday.  It is good to be back in the water and back on board.  If poorer.

 

29th April 2014.  I went down to the boat in the morning and took the opportunity to put new zincs on the port prop shaft.  One was missing and the other half gone.  I tidied up and returned to the motel about 1330 just in time to get the message from Larry that he was back at the boat and about to reinstall the shaft.  I drove the five minutes to the yard and she went in much more easily than she came out.  All three prop blades had been slightly bent, and the shaft was out of round by 64 thou.  The reinstallation went smoothly, with the stuffing box presenting no issues, and the alignment at the flanges unaltered, and good.  I put new zincs on the starboard shaft, cleaned the starboard topsides, tidied up and then arranged with Nick to splash in the morning.  Tired again, but dinner at the same excellent restaurant helped.

 

28th April 2014.  Hauled, as arranged at 0930.  Getting into the slip for the slings was interesting.  There was still a bit of current at right angles to the slip, and although I didn't hit anything, we ended up coming alongside the down-current piling and warping around.  Larry was there when he said and once she was chocked, he and Randy (and I) spent the next 3.5 hours getting the shaft out.  The prop was all right to get off, but the shaft was reluctant to come.  One of the set screws had to be drilled, since the locking screw above had flared the head at the top.  The dial out showed about 3/16 eccentricity in the shaft.  In the end, with much effort and a wonderful end hammer, and lubricant and swearing she finally came.  Sorry, rereading that it sounds like a porno novel, but that's how it was.  The prop was also bent, as demonstrated by sitting it flat on the ground, and Larry went of with both prop and shaft while Diane went off to get a rental car and Walker and I tidied up and packed.  We checked into a motel, very tired, and had a wonderful seafood dinner at the restaurant next door.  Part of the tiredness is the nervous energy invested in watchng your home being pulled out of the water.

27th April 2014.  Tidied up prior to hauling.  Closed the airconditioning sea cocks. 

26th April 2014.  No problems with the turn of the current and we slept well.  Underway at 0800 wih a moderate NE wind and clear skies.  You could tell the prop was not right but I seemed to get used to it.  I had expected the current to be against us all of the way, but we had it with us all the way!  The architecture of the houses along the waterway around Myrtle Beach is appalling.  Two swing bridges opened perfectly for us and we passed two yachts, slowly made it through the Rock Pile and were tied up in Lightkeepers Marina by 1300 taking 5 hours for 38 miles.  At the end I was at 1200 revs and making 7.5 kts.  In a slip and waiting for Larry the diver.  Unfortunately his diagnosis turned out to be a bent prop shaft and we will haul Monday at 0930 to remove the prop and drop the shaft.  That's life on a boat.  Bugger. 

25th April 2014.  Away at 0810 but fought tide all the way.  Last night was a good overnight anchorage but a few insects, again.  Up the cut towards Georgetown and the N up the Waccamaw River.  Moderate following breeze kicked up some waves against the tide.  Made only 5 to 6 kts as a line of us progressed.  Just short of the anchorage we hit something unobserved in the water, centre channel.  First bow and then prop I believe.  I was too slow in cutting the power and we now have some vibration from the stbd side.  Workable though.  The struts and stuffing boxes seem nominal.  Anchor down at 1310 after 31 miles.  Anchored in the entrance to Cow Shed Creek next to a big steel schooner.  He seems to have rode only so will swing very wide.  Should be OK with our chain and he will swing to the current before us I believe.  Rang Lightkeepers Marina to reserve a slip and try and arrange a diver to look at the prop and if need be, pull it.

24th April 2014.  Nice evening but the wind came up with the sun.  No-see-ems not bad, but they are getting in somewhere we can't find.  Left it until 1310 to get a little tide and we worked through the shallow bits as it rose.  Not too bad at all, given the awful comments we read.  At one point it was dolphin city, the most since Sarasota Bay, flopping and surfing and bow-riding.  About 10 or 12 of them for about 10 or 15 minutes.  The wind was cold and uncomfortable and we were happy to drop hook in the N branch of Duck Creek at 1410.  In 12 feet in what I consider a relatively narrow channel.  Wind still 10 - 15 kts E (which ruled out the anchorage further N which is open to the E) and cool/cold (for us).  

23rd April 2014.  Port tank dipped at 3/4 exactly.  Water filled.  Minor reprovisioning.  Departed at 1125 at slack water through Elliot Cut and down Charleston Harbor to the ICW entrance.  Clear and warm.  Added a quart of oil to each engine before settng out.  Careful navigation through the channel and past Fort Sumptner.  I thought it was a dredge to start with.  Sorry Fort Sumptner.  Eased past Swinton Creek at about 1/2 tide rising.  Thereafter easy going mostly in cuts.  The houses are remarkable and we are starting to see some broadleaf trees.  Eased off the ICW into Avendaw Creek and anchored in 12' at high water with a 5' range.  Two other boats in here as well.  Hook down at 1630 after a full 5 hours day making 37 miles with a plus and minus current.  Sometimes 9.3 and sometimes 6.3.

22nd April 2014.  Terrible no-see-ems again, but we killed may 1000 with the spray.  Nice anchorage apart from that.  Away at 1100, again departure being dictated by the tide.  After turning we had 9.2 kts at 1500 revs with the tide.  I came back to 1300 later to arrive closer to slack water, making 5.3 kts against the tide in the later portion.  Clear skies, warm with a moderate S/SW breeze.  Tided up alongside at St Johns Boat Harbor by 1440.  On the outside and a bit bouncey.  About 26 miles in 2.5 hours.

21st April 2014.  Great anchorage for the N wind.  Moderate wind overnight but great stars and a last quarter moon.  We had mooeys as well.  Set out at 1015, a couple of hours after low.  The tide determines the day's itinerary and timing here.  The stbd oil pressure at both stations said zero on start up, but the alarm buzzer turned itself off as usual.  Pressure sender on the way or sticky?  Shutting down and restarting put it right, but it needs to be watched.  We intended to take the longer way around the cuts, but had 3' of tide and saw other larger boats going through so we changed plans and did the cuts.  No issues.  Moderate N wind and clear blue sky.  Anchor down in Steamboat Creek off the North Edisto River at 1410 in 15'.  There is 7' of tide.  Quite a nice day's run apart from the oil pressure scare. 

20th April 2014.  A cold wet night.  25 kts out of the N, to which we were exposed, and the chain fully stretch out.  Cb went through just to the W with gusts and heavy rain.  Up five times to check on things.  Some moderation in the morning, but cold, raining/drizzle with lowered visibility in mist.  Departed 1008 with a clean anchor and slotted into the N bound traffic.  The crossing of Port Royal Sound was miserable and roughish.  The turn N towards Port Royal and Beaufort was classic wind (20 kts) against tide and very bouncey.  The dog retired below.  Some meandering under the swing bridge and then down the Coosaw River and the sun came out.  Found our way off the ICW to a nice anchorage up Wimbee Creek off the Bull River.  Well protected.  Still windy and the hook bit well after pulling out once.  120' of chain plus the bridle.  42 miles, mostly at 1600 revs.  hook down around 1515. 

19th April 2014.  Misty and raining but we left anyway.  I backed out OK but then misjudged the tidal current and got pinned on the end of the dock.  My error and a(nother) lesson learned.  After the debacle motored at varying speeds and revs as we threaded our way in and out of creeks, cuts, and sounds.  Away at 0945 and anchor down at 1400.  We went slowly the last hour, there being no rush and the tide still 3/4 high falling.  Anchored at the South side of May River behind Hilton Head Island.  The wind rose, the drizzle continued, the boat swung and rocked, but again it was nice to be on the hook and not in a marina.  Just 30 miles in cold, miserable conditions.  Port stuffing box tightened a bit since it was dripping too much after shutting down.

18th April 2014.  Evil weather.  Cold, windy and raining - a lot.  Stayed inside and read most of the day.

17th April 2014.  Poor weather but we intended to stay at the marina anyway.  Bucket line spliced on, aft head bolts reinstalled with epoxy, modified hatch cover installed, aft head door latch repaired and galley faucet overhauled.

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At Anchor - Florida

16th April 2014.  Back on board about 22:00.  Reconnected power, cleaned out defrosted fridges, opened the head seacocks and unloaded the car.  There was an impressive amount of "stuff" to bring on board.

5th April 2014.  Lovely remote anchorage overnight, but savage no-see-ums in the morning and most of the time underway.  1045 departure with mud on the chain and anchor, and motored slowly out to hit Hell's Gate just before noon.  Three quarter tide and rising.  No real problems and I slowed down to stay behind a black hulled ketch, and hit Skidaway Narrows at more of less high tide.  Into the Isle of Hope Marina at 1330 after 20 slowish miles at only 1250 revs.  Tight to get in, but I didn't hit anything.  We will stay here, and  leave the boat while we drive back to Tarpon Springs for Cassie's wedding.  Aft head removed.  Dog fell in the water between the boat and the dock, in the dark, with the tide running.  It took both of us to haul him out - fortunately a floating dock - and despite some rough handling he didn't seem too fussed.  He enjoyed the hot shower on the aft deck to get the salt off. 

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Dog in Position

4th April 2014.  The wind finally moderated after midnight and there was no rolling on the turn of the tide.  I still have the passage-making habit of getting up several times during the night just to do a circuit of the deck.  Departure deferred till 0945 to again work the tide.  We anchored at 1230 in 18' at the junction of Buckland Creek and Cane Patch Creek.  The wind had risen all morning and we stretched out 120' of chain plus bridle.  The usual obsessive navigation.  The aft head is totally screwed up.  Back to the manual pump, but it needs overhaul or replacement.  Amazed at the number of dolphins we continue to see.  They just roll by with a cursory glance.  Weather forecast to deteriorate tomorrow. 

3rd April 2014.  0930 till 1230.  Much the same again.  Three prawn trawlers, one returning and two departing.  Nice quiet open anchorage.  The anchor dragged big time to start with and we had to reset.  Wind against tide - more wind than I expected and we are bouncing around.  Hopefully it will die down at dusk on the turn.

2nd April 2014.  0830 and a relatively clean anchor chain.  Some flood and we rode it North to the watershed.  Again, very glad for the high tide.  At one point we had 9' depth with a 7' tide, centre channel.  Low salt marshes but more sand than mud now.  Intense navigation again - probably unnecessary with the tide, but ...  Hook down behind Commodore Island about 1130 as the ebb started.  The wind is cold over the cold water.  Again the turn over the anchor will need to be watched.  Last night went well.  22 miles.   

1st April 2014.  A beautiful anchorage last night - much more like cruising.  Great stars and absolute quiet, a good sunset and a south wind later in the night to rock the boat.  Left at 0930 for the tide and motored 21 miles to just north of Lanier Island (abeam Brunswick, GA).  Jekyll Creek was shallow and again we were glad to do it at full tide.  Quite a tidal current here and we will see how the anchor resets on the change of tide.  Watched dolphins hunting (we think) in the shallows of either bank.  Weather good - as good as you could ask for - with light S/SE augmented by the sea breeze later in the day.  Hook down around 1300.  

31st March 2014.  After sweating how to get out of our slot on the dock, the cat behind left at 0700 and we slid out, backing down the pier about 0835.  The current came and went as we crossed "watersheds".  Across the Sound, past the Naval station (Trident subs - none present) through the squirrelly bit, and glad to hit it at high tide, and then anchored in 16' (9' tidal range) at 1145.  A pleasant 24 mile trip working the tide.  We went no further so we would have high tide for Jekyll Island tomorrow.  We are just inside the mouth of the Cumberland River, south of St Andrew Sound in Georgia.  

30th March 2014.  The NW wind continued all day.  Cold, with gusts to 30 kts.  Not going anywhere.  Water filled.  We went for a short walk around Fernandina Beach mid- afternopon.

29th March 2014.  A pre-frontal band with embedded Cb came through  so we stayed put as the worst of it slid by just South of us.  By 2100 there was 25 kts of west wind.   

28th March 2014.  A late getaway from the marina at 1100 to try and work the tide.  Very strong current for the first bit but when we hit Nassau Sound we went from 9 to 4 kts.  We worked our way carefully from mark to mark at idle speed making 4.5 kts until the flood set in.  Things worked out quite well and we hit the shallow shoaled bend with about 18" of tide and rising.  That's 18" of 7 feet I may add.  We had 9" under the keel on several occasions but managed to avoid touching.  It was hard work navigating for most of the day.  The weather was deteriorating and forecast to get worse so I chickened out and we went into the Fernandina marina.  Nice, quiet, and raining with increasing wind.

27th March 2014.  We took on 268 gallons of fuel and filled the water tanks.  The new dip stick seems accurate, (I estimated 280 gallons from it) and this means an average of 3.75 gph which is much better than the expected 6 gph.  Getting onto the fuel dock was easy - getting off against current and wind took a little while.  I am glad I haven't repaired the swim platform.  Strong current outbound until the turn North and we went from 8.9 to 4.6 kts.  Motored against it for most of the morning with a falling tide.  A following breeze made it pleasant, but navigation remains constant.  Into Beach Marina at Jacksonville Beach.  Nice set up.  Acceptable anchorages are few and far between, hence more marinas than we had expected.

26th March 2014.  I bled the fridge raw water system and the flow works now.  We went ashore with Dog and did some shopping.  Cold, but the wind is moderating.  Dog was the star attraction in St Augustine, baying all the way through town and back.   

25th March 2014.  Another cold day with the northerly stronger.  Stayed at home.

24th March 2014.  The forecast was right, and sometime after midnight the wind set in.  A miserable day.  Cold, drizzle, biting north wind.  We stayed inside and read, secured to the mooring ball.  Not going anywhere till the weather improves.

23rd March 2014.  Left about 1000 for a leisurely 14 miles up to St Augustine on a quite warm morning.  On a mooring there by 1215.  Went ashore with Dog using their ferry.  Dog did well.  Lovely evening.

 

22nd March 2014.  The wind was from dead astern so we backed off the dock all right, although the bow line hung up for a moment.  As before, 1550 rpm and 7+ kts into a building NNE wind.  It was bloody cold on the fly bridge with the wind coming in over cold water.  Past the NASA VAB, very conspicuous, through the Haulover Canal and out into Mosquito Lagoon.  It blew over a 2 mile fetch and we anchored just off the ICW in bumpy conditions.  As before, Halcyon sat wonderfully and we slept well.  I went up on deck in the middle of the night, comme d'habitude, and saw the best stars since the Pacific.  Next day, 20th, we motored easily up to Daytona Beach arriving about 14:15 and set the hook in mud in an excellent anchorage.  I added just over a quart of oil to each engine to bring them back to full.  Seems all right to me after 457 miles.  We stayed on the hook for an extra day, launching the dinghy, and Walker into it.  No one fell in and Dog did well both getting off and then getting on again.  He had three shits in an hour ashore.  Happy Dog.  This morning we left in a moderate S wind and had to drive around a bit to straighten the chain as we sat with tide against wind and the chain out to one side.  Three bridges opened promptly and politely and we motored at speeds varying between 5.8 and 8.1 kts depending on the tide and where we were along the way.  Old Florida was apparent, interspersed with some lines of very expensive homes.  We are now anchored in the Matanzas River alongside the Spanish 1740 fort, with a 4' tidal range and 2 kt current that is in the process of reversing now.  The forecast is not so good so we intend to go up to St Augustine in the morning and pick up one of their moorings, and maybe hang off it for a couple of days.  

18th March 2014.  We stayed at Moore Haven the extra day and then set off on the next morning at 0800 motoring in moderate NE conditions round to Clewiston and then set out across the lake.  Conditions were much better than I expected and after passing through the Port Mayaca Lock, which was open we motored to Indiantown and stayed at the marina overnight.  There were no other acceptable anchoring options.  A slow start the next day and more of the same, motoring at 1550 and 7.7 knots down to the 13 foot fall of the St Lucie lock and then back to salt water and tides.  We anchored the night just off the channel where I had anchored in Nikki on the way up from St Lucia in October 1986, just past Stuart.  Next morning, we negotiated the turn into the northbound ICW and immediately relaxed, misread a mark, and went aground.  I bit of toing and froing with the engines wiggled us back into deep water and we ended up anchoring mid-afternoon in a wide area, just off the channel, with 25 gusting 30 kts of wind and a 5 mile fetch.  I love the bridle arrangement which lowers the angle and allows a loop of chain to act as a kellet.  I had 90 feet of chain out in 7 feet of water, and needed it.  Despite the two foot waves going by, Halcyon was extremely stable and extremely comfortable.  The st'bd stuffing box had increased to a dribble so I tightened it down.  I had not reset the locking nuts, thinking I would need to adjust it again before we departed, and I assume this was the issue.  Or maybe it was just bedding down: it was the one I repacked.  The forecast for the next day sounded like the script for a disaster movie, so we got away early and motored to Cocoa and stopped at the marina there about 1230.  The front and associated weather went through early morning and today we waited for the resulting northerly to moderate and will depart tomorrow.  Today I dipped the tanks at just over half, which agrees with just under 3 gallons per hour on each of two engines, topped up the water, changed fuses on the for'd power connection and tested it as good, and discussed the poorly functioning aft head with Patrick at Groco - seems it will need a rebuild too, which we will try and do when near them in Maryland.  We went (I bicycled and Diane walked with the Dog) to Publix and reprovisioned.  It was a couple of miles and carrying all the goodies over the tall bridge was the most exercise we've had in ten days or so.  The north wind is now north-east and getting off the outside dock might be interesting in the morning.  

12th March 2014.   We departed Tarpon Springs at 09:15 on 8th March after waiting for some marginal weather to go through.  Good decision.  Heading South we ran outside from Clearwater to the mouth of Tampa Bay and then inside down to Sarasota Bay where we anchored after a moderately hard run.  Then, as per our track, Lemon Bay the next night, York Island the next, then just before Franklin Lock and now alongside at Moore Haven where we have continual 110v and so I have cranked up the lap top. So far five days and 225 miles.  After the first day's run of 70nm we have slowed up doing only 35 to 45 each day.  Halcyon ambles along beautifully at 1550 revs making around 7.3kts.  It is almost soothing at this speed.  We met heaps of dolphins and more boat traffic than you can imagine until passing through Fort Myers but things are far more sedate now.  The port stuffing box is leaking a little too much, but stable, and the starboard is just right.  So far, so good and we are quite enjoying  ourselves.  Walker is a little ambivalent about it all and is not too sure about pissing on the deck.  The odd paw has stretched over the side as he looks and sniffs wistfully at the shore.  He saw cows on the bank of the canal today and barked ferociously.  The cows, ever curious, walked along, gazing intently in our direction trying to figure things out.  We have had two locks, the Franklin and the Ortona.  They are "up" locks and the turbulence on exiting nearly caught me both times.  Thank heavens for twin screws and a lot of power available.   We intend staying here tomorrow to let the North wind subside before crossing the lake.

2nd March 2014   Diane and I went out for a test run and the whine in the stern gear remains.  I checked the bottom when we anchored out behind Anclote Key (the water was not too bad) and the props, struts, cutlass bearings and zincs all look fine.  The bottom has only slime, plus a few barnacles.  I required 7 lbs of added weight to achieve neutral bouyancy, whereas 40 years ago I only needed 2 lbs.  I wonder what changed.  A search of the internet shows the issue is quite common, with variable sources.  The most common is the trailing edges of the props being too sharp, and the resulting noise is called "prop singing".  There are apparently learned papers on the subject from the Navy.  So I don't intend to do anything about it at this time.  The bearings will wear in, the stuffing boxes will change pressure and if all else fails, I will file the props.  Or live with it.  Or wait for it to get worse and reveal the source.

The water tanks have been filled.  A further valve has been added to the aft head plumbing to allow selection between overboard or holding tank discharge.  The stuck valve has been removed, disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and reinstalled.  The bicycles are on board and the various boxes of spares and equipment have been stowed in the lazarette so as to not move in a seaway.  The bottom has been scrubbed.  All of the charts have been received and stowed.  A barbeque has been purchased. 

We should be ready to depart Tuesday, but a Gulf low is meant to track across the state on Thursday with the prospect of severe weather.  But you can't depart on a Friday so that means Saturday ... and so on.  We'll play it by ear and watch the weather.       

  

13th February 2014  I have been working on the boat just about every day, but don't seem to have that much to report.  Diane has stated that we can't leave until 3rd March, so 3rd March it will be.  I can use the extra couple of weeks.  The prop shaft zincs have been replaced by the diver (water too cold - even for me) but the whine from the stern between 1050 and 1200 revs on the port engine remains.  John Orme and I did a run for a couple of hours and were able to kid ourselves it had diminished when we returned.  I will go out again and see if further running helps.  The tentative diagnosis is the new cutlass bearing bedding in.

I now have nearly all the charts, with part of Canada still to go.  These are the backup to the chartplotter, whose chips I have updated.  The forward head has been overhauled by the manufacturer and I have reinstalled it.  All seems well.  The engine and generator have had their oil and fuel filters changed, and their Racor filters changed as well.  Replacement spares have been purchased.  The outboard has had its annual maintenance by the dealer (nothing untoward found) and is back on board.  In all cases I intend, based on watching the professionals, doing oil changes and maintenance myself.  The holding tank connection for the aft head has been blanked off so I am reworking the plumbing there.  Just as well - one of the valves is stuck and will need replacement.  Adventures in human waste land.

Courtesy flags for the US and Canada and the "Q" flag purchased as well.  I have gone through all of the engine spares with the diesel mechanic and have a fair idea of what I have now.  I have delayed filling the water tanks pending a decision as to whether we will have to haul again, or not, based on the mysterious whine.  A flag halyard has been rigged.  Registration number added to the inflatable.  I have had (and passed) a Coast Guard Auxilliary inspection and attached the sticker that they give.  All head seacocks exercised and closed while I work on the heads.  I managed to dent the swim platform while last docking.  I keep forgetting the bloody thing is there.  Something else to (kind of) repair.  I am sure, however, it will not be the last time. 

 

18th January 2014.  Engine zincs replaced.  They were about half done.  Bonding strap added to starboard prop shaft.

12th January 2014  The Lectra-San now works.  After tracing the wiring I found a breaker that I had assumed was for the 110 volt system.  Once reset, all was well.  The wire tracing took some time and the removal of several panels.  The cooling systems for the diesels have been flushed.  Quite a lot of gunk came out so it was a worthwhile effort.  The Sentry battery charger has had the high voltage pot adjusted to stop it cycling and I think the engine start and generator batteries have received their first really good charge in some time as a result.  A passing diver checked the bottom.  He says it should be OK to just scrub when closer to departure.  He also found that halves of the two zincs on a prop shaft had departed and he will replace them in the coming week.  Hopefully that is the reason for the odd noise aft when underway.  We'll see on the next test run. 

9th January 2014  The spare alternator has been bench tested and declared fit and well.  The rocker cover gaskets have been replaced.  The old ones appear to be original.  The horn has been disassembled, cleaned and reassembled and now works.  Not sure what I did.  The for'd head was leaking when pumped and so I have taken it out prior to sending it off for overhaul.  The fly bridge VHF was stuck in intercom mode.  Disconnecting the wiring for the intercom, (which doesn't exist as far as I can see) solved the issue.  The DSM unit was not working and has been sent back to Raymarine for repair. 
 
Travis and I took her out on a preliminary test run.  The anchor system worked fine though I replaced the hook with a large snap shackle.  The stuffing boxes drip about 6 to 8 times a minute which agrees with the manual.  Chartplotters and GPS work fine.  Engines run fine though there is some noise from the aft end I do not recognize and need to look into further.  The Lectra-San system for the aft head stopped working.  Not sure how one attacks these units.  We slept aboard over the New Year and the living was easy.
 
I'm getting there. 

14th December 2013.  Just to show something is being done, and to record somewhere what has been done, the maintenance plot to date is ...

Anchor bridle made up to improve scope.

Taps for for'd and aft salt and fresh  water wash down replaced.

Stereo unit replaced.  Sirius/XM radio connected directly.  FM unit removed.

Battery voltage meter repaired.

Battery voltage switch replaced.  Wiring reconnected.  

For'd stereo speakers replaced.

For'd bulkhead repainted and trim cleaned and replaced.

All anchor rode and chain replaced.

Anchor locker cleaned and repainted.

Bimini removed, repaired, waterproofed and replaced.

Spray dodgers replaced.

All incandescent light bulbs replaced with LEDs, except nav and one dome but including spreader lights, anchor and steaming lights.

New dinghy cover made up.

Dinghy outboard recall performed.  Outboard test run by dealer.

Mast running rigging replaced.

Aft air conditioner descaled.  All three unit radiators cleaned.  Filters cleaned.

Air conditioners  inspected by dealer and declared all right.

Three new cabin keys cut.

Cockpit light purchased.

Fridge, freezer and ice maker inspected and tested.

New tie back for engine room hatch made up.

For'd hatch cover made up.

Gold Navionics nav CF card for the US purchased and updated.

Gold Navionics nav CF card for Canadian waters purchased and updated.

St'd stuffing box repacked.

Heart inverter repaired and rewired.  Three boards replaced.

Sentry charger indicator lights replaced.

Fuel tank dip stick recalibrated.

Fuel polished thus cleaning tanks.

Cutlass bearings replaced.

New hailing port board made up.

Mast winch overhauled.  Pawls replaced.

Ice maker filter and water filters replaced.

30 amp to 50 amp shore power adaptor purchased.

Starboard engine starter motor rebuilt.

Battery box and base board repaired.

13th November 2013.  For those of you who may be considering joining us for some of the trip, here is what seems to be the recommended timetable.  Remember that weather, maintenance, river and lake levels, silting and lock closures can all play havoc with any attempt at a schedule.  But this is the rough planning guide. 
 
17th February - Depart Florida West coast.  This is our tentative departure date. 
 
1st April - Head North from Stuart on the East coast of Florida.
 
15th May - Arrive Chesapeake Bay.
 
1st June - Depart Chesapeake Bay.
 
15th June - Troy, New York.
 
30th June - Trent-Severn Canal.
 
20th August - North end of Lake Michigan.
 
2nd September - Depart Chicago.
 
20th September - Paducah, Kentucky.
 
25th October - Mobile, Alabama.
 
30th November - Back home.
 
We may decide to take two seasons to make the loop, depending on how we are enjoying it and how long we want to spend in places.  Also, we plan to head North through Lake Champlain from Troy, and then continue up the St. Lawrence so we would expect to be late at the Trent-Severn Canal. 
 
Be interesting to see what the reality turns out to be. 

4th August 2013.  I bought a boat, as all the best stories start.  This time it is a Grand Banks 42 Classic, 1990 model.  It is a bit of a departure, being a motor trawler - no sails.  But the intention is to do The Big Loop and it is the right tool for the job.  Below is a description of events to date, as usual in reverse order so the most recent appears at the top.

9th July 2013.  Fuel tanks filled.  Dip stick found to be in error.  Tanks measured and the dip stick was remarked and dips OK now.

30th June 2013.  Fuel polished with about quarter tanks.  The dip stick was coming up covered  in debris from the bottom of the tank before, but quite clean afterwards.  The filters indicated it was quite dirty but now very clean.

Hard.JPG
Up on the Hard

21st June 2013.  Back in the water and motored round to Anclote Isles Marina.

Lift.JPG
Hauling Out

17th June 2013.  Hauled at Pelican Marine.  Two coats of antifouling.  Topsides compounded and waxed.  Both cutlass bearings replaced.  Generator raw water inlet hose replaced.  Swim ladder pins replaced and swim platform fasteners replaced with stainless.   Starboard stuffing box restuffed.  Aft end of keel ground down and reglassed.  Multiple small gel coat dings filled and blended.  Zincs replaced.

9th May 3013.  Up at 04:20 to check the anchor after a wind shift.  Underway at 07:10 and motored hard trying to reach the Anclote with some sort of tide.  Endless bridges and we had to wait up to 20 minutes at a couple for the scheduled opening.  Made the mouth of the Anclote, via the inside, at 15:40 and were docked at Anclote Isles Marina by 16:10.  Tidied ship.  That's, more or less, 390 NM in 47 hours.

8th May 2013.  Adventures in power boat land.  The starboard engine would not start this morning.  Push the button, and nothing.  I lashed the starboard prop shaft with line, and we set out under Port engine alone at 7 kts.  I consulted the engine manual and wiring diagram and then shorted the starter solenoid, assuming it to be faulty, and the engine started that way.  The bridges opened for us and we made good time to Sarasota Bay (which is larger than I thought) and crept up to the Western shore and anchored for the night.  We had a dolphin belly flopping alongside most of the way up the bay.

7th May 2013.  Found the starboard engine pan full of pink liquid when checking before starting.  I thought it was transmission fluid but managed to get a mechanic quickly who found a loose fuel fitting.  It seems off road diesel is pink in color, just the same shade as the transmission fluid.  Now I know.  We were underway at 10:00 and locked through down into the Caloosahatchee River and Fort Myers.  Anchored (after messing around with a chain jam which necessitated opening up the anchor locker) finally behind York Island near Sanibel at 19:30.  Got the generator going after some research.  A lovely evening.

Docked.JPG
Docked at Moore Haven

6th May 2013.  Because of the grounding, I had both impellors replaced and the raw water strainers cleaned.  Departed Stuart with Travis as crew at 09:45.  I disconnected the starboard high temperature alarm buzzer which went solid on during the day.  Through two locks along the Okeechobee Waterway, motored across the lake, through the Moore Haven lock and alongside the city dock at 18:50.  75 miles.  The refrigerator works well. 

30th April 2013.  Left the Eau Gallie Yacht Club near Melbourne (Florida) at 08:18 motoring at 9.5 kts heading for Stuart on the East coast.  Touched bottom once, having been forced out of the channel by a dick head who passed a huge barge as we approached.  Some air in the port fuel system which cleared.  Starboard engine high temperature alarm sounded intermittantly, but no other indication of an issue.  Arrived at the Waterway Marina at 17:00 after 90 miles or so.  I am glad I did the twin engine power boat handling course a couple of years back.  It made getting in and out of the slips easier. 

26th April 2013.  Closed on Halcyon late in the day after problems with the insurance mob formally issuing coverage.